Despite the long recession of the Brazilian economy, during the in-cosmetics Latin America 2017, held between the days 20-21 in São Paulo, what was noticed by the corridors was a climate of optimism for the cosmetics and personal hygiene sector.
At the opening of the event, the president of Abihpec – Brazilian Association of the Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics industry – João Carlos Basílio da Silva, signaled that the sector should grow between 1% and 3% in real terms in 2017. According to him, the pace of real growth, inflation discounted, will still depend on the evolution of year-end sales.
“There is good prospect for sales on seasonal dates, but there are still uncertainties about the risk of turbulence impacts on the political landscape in consumer confidence,” he said. According to him, Brazil must regain the position of the third largest market in the world for this industry. Currently, the country is ranked fourth, behind Japan, China and the United States. “Japan has moved ahead of the Brazilian market in world consumption of hygiene products, perfumery and cosmetics recently, but this change was partly due to exchange rate changes and this can be reversed in 2018.”
With this optimism in cosmetics Latin America received 150 national and international exhibitors, in a space 20% larger than last year, a true platform of relationships and generation of new business opportunities, based on new raw materials and technologies, brought by global companies.
The expectation of Cathy Laporte, portfolio director of Reed Exhibitions and Daniel Zanetti, director of the fair, is that the event have had a 30% increase in the number of visitors this year. “We have had new exhibitors and a very rich training program focusing on innovation and leading-edge technology in developing new products and ingredients that will revolutionize the cosmetic market,” said Cathy Laporte. “The whole industry has recognized the success of the event, bringing unique novelties and market trends,” Zanetti adds.
In fact, what was seen in the corridors was a great show of technologies, with some trends defined between the stands. For example, actives for antipollution products, green actives, probiotics, and multifunctional actives, especially for men’s products.
Growth in men’s grooming
More concerned about their appearance, the male public has increased the number of skilled beauty salons as well as the sale of differentiated products.
The global market research company, Euromonitor International, presented during a press conference an unprecedented and exclusive report on the growth of the male beauty sector in Latin America. According to Elton Morimitsu, a senior research analyst at Euromonitor, men’s grooming has been showing a sustainable increase in the region. It is the second largest category that grew between 2011 and 2016. “Latin America invoiced last year around US $ 10 billion. The outlook is for an increase of 27% until 2021,” he says.
Sales of men’s beauty products are still dominated by more traditional categories such as perfumes, deodorants and shaving products, which together account for 96% of the total. “The biggest challenge in Latin America is to break stereotypes, Brazil is very strong in the area of fragrances for the male audience, skin care products, for example, are still very much associated with women. To change this perception, the companies are exploring specific niches of products with sun protection, developing a new trend of multifunctional items, “Morimitsu adds.
The male beauty market is growing and is expected to generate US $ 11.3 billion in sales in Latin America in 2017, according to Euromonitor market data. Currently, 27% of men use facial care products and 23% seek options to disguise wrinkles. They wish to increase self-confidence through a more youthful appearance. Like this, they seek for multifunctional, versatile and practical, non-sticky products with fresh fragrances, in healthy skin formulations, finishing products and after shave products. They also want differentiated sensory for formulations that enhance the look and aesthetics. One of the highlights of Dow is the multifunctional All in One Foam Cleanser formulation for the skin and hair. The combination of technologies, Ecosmooth ™ Satin and Dow Corning® 2501 Cosmetic Wax ensure hydration, enhanced foam and long-lasting fragrance. For skin care Dow developed the Stay Fresh After Shave formulation. Dow Corning® 9701, Aculyn ™ 88 and Dow Corning® EL-7040 technologies provide freshness and hydration without leaving the skin greasy. It also has caffeine to regenerate cells and chamomile, which ensures a feeling of softness.
Evonik brought to its booth the new tetrapeptide TEGO® Pep 4-Comfort, an active ingredient for the relief of symptoms common to sensitive skin. The product, according to the company, helps to reduce irritations such as redness and inflammation caused by irritants agents such as heat, sunlight or the effect of shaving. It also brought, TEGO® Care 450, an emulsifier for the formulation of lotions and O / W creams. It forms stable emulsions with all common oils and fats used in skin care products, including polar oils. The creams and lotions based on TEGO® Care 450 are differentiated due to the high stability with heat stress and freezing – between -25 ° C and +50 ° C.
At the Sensory Bar, an area for textured experiences that the organization of the event provided visitors, the company demonstrated its surprising textures, among them the trend in Asia of Caring Oil Release Cream, “a cream that turns into an oil film nutritious or in milk as droplets in contact with the skin, offering additional stimuli to the senses.
PIC Quimica has brought Eversoft UCS-30S: Soft surfactant, based on amino acids, which reduces the irritant potential of surfactant systems and Pentiol Green + Penethylene Glycol of vegetable origin, biodegradable, with organic certificate and emollient, moisturizing and solubilizing properties.
Lubrizol has introduced its Metrossexuals product lines, for men who guide their behaviors by the trends of each season, bringing new concepts, formats and texture in hydration products for the face and body, among other novelties; and Lumbersexuals, for “lumberjack”-style men, with prototypes that help cleanse and treat the beard and hair, providing softer, lined wires.
Trends for the future of total protection
Mintel, the premier global market intelligence agency, presented a forward-looking look at key trends for the beauty, personal care and cosmetics industry during a press conference held at in-cosmetics Latin America 2017. Vivienne Rudd, director of Global Vision, Beauty and Personal Hygiene, stressed that the key element that relates to the innovations of the sector is the sun protection. “Brazil is the 3rd largest market in solar protection in the world, and brands and suppliers need to work hard to differentiate themselves and become more and more competitive, so they have to customize their products based on the interests of consumers,” he said.
According to the agency, consumers are interested in using anti-pollution products, especially the use of natural ingredients in hair care, especially. “Beauty brands must innovate to stay relevant.”
Another important niche pointed out by Viviane Rudd is that of neurocosmetics, which promote physical and emotional effects on skin. “The future is based on the effective need of the market, ” said Viviane.
Producer and distributor Química Anastácio participated in the fair taking new products, such as: solar filters (Tayca and Chempecs) Natural actives of Natura-Tec, and Mineral Oil, USP Vaseline Solid USP of Penreco.
Greens and Vegans
QuantiQ, now part of the GTM Holdings AS group, a chemical distribution platform for Latin America, presented prototypes developed in its own laboratory, using the raw materials present in the portfolio of differentiated textures. Among the launches of its represented, has taken to in cosmetics Latin America, Aquadew®SPA 30B, of Ajinomoto, capillary hydroselaje, derivative of the polyaspartic acid, found in vegetal proteins, like asparagus and the soybean, that promotes damage prevention, seals cuticles, reduces volume and frizz (Umbrela-Like concept)
From CP Kelco, quantiQ brought Keltrol® CG LAX-T, a xanthan gum, hydrocolloid that can be used in natural and vegan products.
Sensient introduced its release Sensibiopro R, to turn dry and damaged hair into shiny and strong. With plant-based actives it restores the hydrophobicity of the hair, provides softness and resistance and includes thermoactivated technology, to help the active to penetrate the hair cuticle and replace the lost lipids.
DSM focuses on visible facial pores and age spots caused primarily by the aging process, exacerbated by sun damage with BEAUACTIVE®, a potent high purity hydroxystearic acid that is manufactured using green technology. It activates the PPARα master cells regulator that triggers multi-target effects for better skin, and hampers the production of solar cells and the p53 stress marker that can increase skin pigmentation.
Crodarom (Croda), was inspired by the famous macaroons to develop its new line of sustainable botanical extracts, including the new ECO-Sound ™ sensory technology, four Délices that reveal the synergy of traditional plants. With: (Délice) Fraicheur – Purity and balance with mango and basil; Extreme – Cocooning and wellness with pecan nut and maple syrup; Detox – Radiance & Energy with lemon and green tea and Epicé – Tonus & Firmeza with date and cinnamon.
Symrise led to in Cosmetics KeraSym ™ Rescue that helps regenerate bleached damaged hair with 100% natural Symrise Amazon ingredients, including Cupuaçu. KeraSym ™ Rescue protects keratin from harmful processes of discoloration, dyeing and exposure to heat. It can be used in shampoos, conditioners and hair oils among others and used at home or by professionals in salons. He also took Thermolat®, a heating agent that allows a pleasant sensation of heat, with a significant reduction of the side effects that occur with VBE alone. It is safe and gentle on the skin. It can be used for soothing balms, hand / foot creams, firming products, lip care, face masks and scalp care. And KeraSym ™ Restore, a product based on intelligent whey protein based (Gliadin) that binds to damaged fiber and prevents breakage of the wires. This clever natural protein repairs damaged hair where it is most needed, thus reducing hair breakage and split ends, improving hair’s brilliance, strength and elasticity.
Mapric (Greentech Group) brought Vegecomplex, a plant extracts composition of plant extracts for the restoration of hair and skin. And by Greentech, Reverskin®, for the redensification of the dermal extracellular matrix. It strengthens the dermo-epidermal junction, increasing its thickness and restoring the cohesion of the stratum corneum by restructuring the epidermis.
Probiotics / Prebiotic
Galena, of nutricosmetic formulations took to the event its Misting Mist with probiotic and sucrose ester for emulsions that contain oily elements. And Gova Ingreedients, represented by Galena, took preBIULIN FOS ™, a prebiotic to balance the skin’s microbiota. The delicate balance of our skin’s microbiota can be disturbed by pollution, excessive UV and chemicals. PreBIULIN FOS ™ is a polyphenisose extracted from chicory roots that preserves and protects the skin, rebalancing the microbiota of the human skin to form a natural defensive shield against the environment, reducing the sensitivity, inflammation, irritation and itching of the skin. It is the first prebiotic to perform an Ex-vivo test – the most advanced test in the industry for a prebiotic effect on the skin.
The Institute of Technology and Studies of Personal Hygiene, Perfumery and Cosmetics (ITEHPEC) presented the winners of the ITEHPEC Innovation Award 2017, during a cocktail in in-cosmetics Latin America, recognizing the innovating practices of the ingredients manufacturers for the industries of the sector.
Silab won the Gold award for the development of HairGenyl®, which acts on three mechanisms of regulation of hair growth: mitochondrial dynamics, expression of signaling molecules and components of epigenetics. Thus, it supports the biological activity of the dermal papilla and stimulates the growth of the hair follicle. Increases hair growth. It is rich in yeast peptides Pichia minuta, isolated from azalea flowers. The hair becomes thicker, more resistant and the scalp is more densely covered. HairGenyl® is recommended for all anti-hair loss and regeneration products.
The second prize went to Clariant, with its Eosidin ™: the first solution developed to protect the skin from indoor pollution damage, which refers to the accumulation of heavy metals and other materials, which trigger irritations and atopic conditions of the skin. Eosidin ™ originates from the protected reserve of Jeju Island, South Korea. It is an extract enriched with potent molecules that play an important role in regulating immunomodulation and reducing hypersensitivity conditions. “Clariant has been strengthening its portfolio by launching new lines that focus on natural assets,” said Fabio Caravieri, Marketing Manager of Business Unit Industrial & Consumer Specialties for Latin America.
And Lipotec (Lubrizol), which won bronze by Reprography ™ peptide (which also won the bronze medal of the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Awards at the in-cosmetics Global in London). It is a peptide that induces cellular reprogramming in the basal layer of the epidermis by modulating the epigenetic elements, helping to reactivate the basal cells and their regeneration capacity, resulting in a visible improvement in the appearance of mature skin. It has specific action on the microRNA-145, epigenetic regulator with known capacity to inhibit the activity of the transcription factors of stem cells, resulting in the decrease of the power of regeneration of the basal cells.