Imagine a sticky male body moisturizer, or a thick, oily anti-aging cream for Brazilian women … At least in thstand is country, such products would not succeed. Men, especially those who have many body hair, would not endure such moisturizer. And women, in the hot, humid climate of the country, would also not stand a thickening, oily face cream. Thus, rheological modifiers, more commonly known as textures, are an integral part of a personal care and cosmetics  product in general.

That is why new modalities arise in this area every day. Whether to increase the luster of a lipstick, offer the matt touch to  primers, or to increase the sensation of freshness during or after bathing. Nothing smarter, for example, than an ointment for hair that is neither oily nor sticky, but leaves the hair tidy to the desired degree; a mousse, moisturizing and scented soap to be used during bathing, or the dry touch sunscreen for beach volleyball players.

The textures add value to the final cosmetic product. They can be used to refer to indicated applications and benefits provided. There are those who say that they are – along with the fragrances – the best part of cosmetics and toiletries. The references to the playful are on account of who uses.

Area experts reveal to cosmetics how the sensory can refer to applications and benefits provided by cosmetic, face or body products.

“The textures impact directly on the sensorial and visual aspect of the final product. They help to vary the appearance of a formulation, make the product more interesting and thus add value to the final product, “says Emerson Dorigon, Technical Co-ordinator of Personal Care at Brenntag Química Brasil.

“With the rheological modifiers we can vary the appearance of a liquid to gel formulation, thus providing not only the benefits of the active but the pleasure of playing the composition as a whole. Thus, the visual and the sensorial are important factors for the consumer at the time of the purchase: “, evaluates Emerson.

If we want to talk about fast absorption, dry touch and high durability, the much sought claims by the male public in cosmetic products, we can explore textures in gel or gel-cream. If the search is for high hydration of body dry areas, a  butter texture will be the most indicated, offering the consumer greater understanding of the formula and function, “explains Cláudio Ribeiro, technical coordinator of Lubrizol Brazil.

Skin Care’s market size in 2016 was US$ 3,097.1 million, the Body Care  segment represents 55% of the total market. The category size in 2016 was US $ 1,705.9mn, Brazil is the second largest country in Body Care globally. Thus the market for rheology modifiers, or textures, is an infinite field and one of the most promising in Brazil and the world.

“The Brazilian has a passion for body care products, and it is exactly where it is most demanded.” In the vast majority, all segments in personal care are welcome in novelties in textures and fragrances. They are very strong matters in the adhesion of the consumer in knowing new products and often in the quest to know specific textures for their skin type and / or objective, says Mônica Antunes Batistela, cosmetics marketing coordinator, quantiQ‘s Technical Applications Laboratory.


New textures arise every day in every part of the world, enchanting and attracting the consumer to differentiated products or brands that show up innovative textures.

Cinthia Ferreira, researcher for Product Development for Corpo da Natura, states: “New textures help increase consumer perception of the company’s innovation capacity. They are important to provide new sensory experiences for the consumer and showcase the brand’s potential for innovation. ”

In most cases, the consumer relies solely on the manufacturer’s information to perceive composition differentials in the cosmetics he uses. Leticia Tavares, Product Manager of Inoar Cosméticos points out, however, that two issues escape this pattern and convey innovations that the cosmetic lover can perceive for himself: texture and aroma. They are sensory characteristics that instigate the user to bet on a new product, “she says.

For the formulator, each class of products has its charms and challenges: skin compositions should be elegant and offer extremely low allergenic potential. “No agent of consistency is inert to the other aspects of a formulation, the challenge is always to find molecules that confers unprecedented sensory and at the same time bring some kind of extra benefit to the dermis and hair of the user,” says Leticia.

To demonstrate how the rheological agents add a greater understanding to the products, or even the unusual, we highlight some products found in the Brazilian market.


Natura recently launched a new line of body products that includes a Moisturizing Bath Deodorant Mousse that is applied as soon as the bath ends but needs rinsing. The texture is mousse and leaves a moisturizing film on the skin. (R $ 39.90)


Guerlain brings the Météorites Illuminating Powder with star powder technology – a light-creator polymer that turns light invisible to the naked eye into pure, lasting illumination for the skin. A subtle blend of matte of white pearls in matte tones, rosy, radiant blue combined with colored corrective beads – yellow to correct redness, pink to illuminate and mauve to absorb light -, it illuminates the face in a corrective spectrum for a special glow. (R $ 305)


Shiseido brought to the country Future Solution LX – Total Regenerating Cream, regenerating cream with dense and creamy texture that quickly melts on contact with the skin, creating the ideal environment for the nocturnal performance of the cream (R $ 1,722.00). And the Shiseido Concentrated Balancing Softener E softening lotion, features optimized texture with soft glow that seems to emerge from the inside out. (R $ 445.00)


Kiko Milano brings the Pure Clean line of skincare, to clean and moisturize the skin, with highlight to: Pure Clean Scrub & Peel, a kit with 20 makeup wipes that clean and exfoliate the skin ($ 49.90). Kiko also brings Lip Scrub to the market, an exfolianting in stick  shape that includes crystals in its texture ($ 59.90).


Passion Fashion Female Foamous‘s Parfum Mousse presents a new way to use fragrances: scented foam. Aerated and voluptuous, with long lasting moisturizing properties. The fragrance brings a blend of blackberries and peonies.


The Brazilian brand feito brasil uses seeds to produce an exfoliating effect. Gomagem Corporal Pura Fantasia Esfoliante, based on Apricot seeds, produces intense exfoliation on the skin, stimulating cell renewal. Creamy in appearance, it contains vegetable oil rich in Omega 3 and 6 which provides emollience and hydration. And also, Vegetable extract of Melon, rich in vitamins and minerals, which has moisturizing and remineralizing properties.


Also in the most natural line, Vinottage brings the Body Exfoliating Soap: It gently exfoliate  the skin, thanks to the ground grape seeds, removing impurities and dead cells stimulating circulation.
The also Brazilian, Hinode bet on the gel to develop Gel Corps Lignea that assists in the burning of localized fats. The formula contains camphor and menthol, which produce a pleasant sensation of freshness and warmth at the same time. (R $ 51,50)


“Cosmetic products with the appearance and textures different from the conventional stand out and attract much more the consumer attention. If the formulation promotes a transformation or even causes an unexpected effect, the success of the product is even greater, “says Vanessa Silva,  Technology & Innovation Coordinator at Cosmotec.

The company highlights 3 ingredients that make up its portfolio: AQUPEC HU C2002 (Cosmotec / Sumitomo Seika): confers a ludic effect, appearance and gel structure. It is a nonionic associative rheological modifier for challenging formulas. It has stability and resistance to variations in pH, salts, cationic surfactants and UV exposure. Allows jelly-like structures with spray properties and memory effect of the product.

AQUPEC SER W-300C (Cosmotec / Sumitomo Seika): promotes elastic texture without tack. It is an acrylic acid polymer super resistant to electrolytes. It allows obtaining high viscosity, forming an elastic gel structure, providing sensory and differentiated appearance.

AQUPEC MG N40R (Cosmotec / Sumitomo Seika): provides sensory comfort during application. It is a sensorial modifier capable of forming gel with the appearance of a silicone elastomer, in a totally aqueous structure. It gives softness, silky and extreme comfort during the application, with a differentiated texture (matte effect).

Brenntag Química do Brasil offers several products in its portfolio destined for this application, among them are: NIPEST®L, with a high viscosity range (Gel in one minute), enabling the preparation of more robust formulations and allowing the concentration of thickeners in formulations with lower viscosity range are decreased; NIPEST®65 (high viscosity hair gel) dispenses solubilization time, acting fast and adding viscosity in one minute. E NIPEST®L1 is a rheological modifier intended for suspension formulations because its polymer chain allows the aggregate viscosity to hold the desired material in suspension. The company also offers in its Kraton line of thickeners used to thicken from mineral oil, reaching consistency of gel of high firmness, to mineral oils that can not be heated up to high temperatures. And, within the Vegelight line of 100% natural alternatives to formulations that want to get away from synthetic silicones. Vegelight Si 118, for example, acts as a film former protecting the skin and preventing the natural loss of skin moisture, as well as enriching the sensory of the formulations.

“Some textures of emulsions and creams may present the second skin effect, which is the second skin effect, which often mimics the structure of our skin, contributing to the conduction of active substances, due to the presence of liquid crystals in the lamellar structure of the emulsion , says Monica Batistela of quantiQ. “We have in our portfolio examples such as Olivem 1000 from HallStar and Amisoft HS-11P from Ajinomoto. They are active bases, with sensorial and unique textures. The first derivative of olive and the second of amino acids. In addition to providing innovative textures, they can also exert a carrier effect. And also natural hydrocolloids from the company CP Kelco, derived from xanthans, carrageenans, gellans and pectins, which give differentiated and rich textures, “quotes the marketing coordinator.

“New textures such as mousse, soufflé and sorbet, among others, can sharpen the senses and sensations in consumers, bringing the playfulness to their moment of personal care, involving them in a gourmet universe, or the sensation of escapism in relation to everyday life , “Says the Lubrizol technical coordinator.

Lubrizol and its  polymers families allow the creation of the most diverse textures, ranging from a fluid gel and  ofdry touch, to a cream with a creamy and shiny appearance of a gellato. The Avalure Flex-6 polymer in combination with Carbopol®  line carbomer polymers can produce mousse-like textures to creams that refer to sauces and syrups and also allows the formulation of  creams and lotions with memory effect that refers to the firmness of the skin. The Carbopol Ultrez-30 polymer at higher concentrations produces textures that remits of ice cream or manjar and in combination with high concentrations of glycols can produce textures that refer to honey and jellies. And the Novethix L-10 polymer produces so-called scoopable textures (capable of being excavated / broken, returning to the original stage quickly), it is also possible to formulate sprays because of the high shear rate that the polymer gives the formulations followed and fast recovery of the original stage, preventing the product from flowing on the skin going beyond the applied area.