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  Interview  
 

Thierry Bessard Givaudan perfumer: “More intense fragrances or even gourmands for the Brazilian public need to offer also certain freshness”
03/19/2007

                             

1 – Which are the fragrance trends for 2007?

There are many: special editions, new versions or "Flankers”, duos, smelling innovations, such as new, noble, exotic or even traditional woods on the female fragrances; perfumes that combines the floral femininity with the fruits joviality (fruity floral). What we are seeing now is a search for ingredients and smelling nuances able to promote an innovation on the new creations.

To the men, the oriental notes also mark their presence on the most innovative creations. The male virility will be reinforced with a lot of freshness and sensuality through the woody notes fresh ones or warmest.


2 – What do you think about unisex fragrances?

Considering that today the market is demanding fragrances that distinguish their users, which bring them personality, identity and distinction, this concept is in the wrong way. The USA and Germany markets are more opened to fragrances that doesn’t emphasizes so strongly the distinction between genres, maybe in these countries this concept can have resonance.


3 – Does the fragrances duos are up to date?

Yes, if the concept will be strong for both sexes, nothing against (see for instance Remix, by Emporio Armani)


4 – What is the measure that a perfumer puts from himself I a fragrance creation and how much he follows a briefing made by the company?

A fragrance is many times constructed on several hands: the client understands its business and its consumer’s longing and I understand about the art of transforming these dreams in fragrances.
In the moment of creation, I’m 100% focused on search the most beautiful composition, the most rich fragrance, the most differentiated... but that at the end attends the briefing.
With all my life experience on perfumery, many times I propose ways that the client hadn’t think about before, but that just could give the distinction that its fragrance needs. 


5 – Does the comfortable fragrances, with gourmand notes, which remits to “family” women, are still a trend? How about the sexy ones and the romantic ones?

The fragrances with gourmand notes continue in high and even invading the male perfumery! They can be used in a subtle way to translate a female sensuality more natural next to creamy floral and cuddling notes or even, in a more intense way, in sexy e provoking concepts such as the passion elixirs.


6 –Head Space note can be of any specie? Vegetal, animal or another, such as morning dew, included on the most recent O Boticario´s fragrance Royalty?

It can reproduce any thing, inclusive an atmosphere as was the case of the Salto Morato Head Space which reproduces the smell of this natural reserve from the South of Brazil, a green jungle extremely humid surrounded by waterfall everywhere, or the Brises d'Hachijojima Head Space (an island from Pacific in South of Japan) which brings the freshness of the breeze marine combined to green notes of the alga above the volcanic rocks on the shore.
The Head Space Morning Dew Orchid brings the unique perfume of this native orchid from the humid tropical forests. Marked by a suave freshness combined to an intense floral sensuality, this ingredient was perfect on the Royalty composition to represent the untouched femininity of the peasant woman.

7 – In which part of the world Givaudan will be researching new fragrances this year?

The great expeditions for new Head Spaces discovers searches for unexplored and unknown sites, of hard access and that have a rich and interesting biodiversity for the capture of new scents.
They are planned with a lot care, at each three or four years, because, besides of the high investment, it is necessary to study previously the region to be assure of the richness of its biodiversity, besides getting authorization of the governments, among so many other bureaucracies...
After an expedition there is still a long process of scents reproduction in laboratory, many tests for the confirmation of its smelling potential etc.
The last expedition was realized two years ago in Papua New Guine.


8 – Does the Brazilian raw materials, such as priprioca, are on the worldwide company catalogues? Do they aware some interest?

Worldwide there are other essential oils bought in Brazil but they aren´t typical Brazilian essences. The Priprioca as the Louro Rosa are ingredients of exclusive use for certain clients, because they were developed in innovative partnership projects, with high investments from both parts.

9 – What’s the importance for Givaudan of household fragrances or soaps, deodorants? Even without the same glamour then the female and male fragrances, which percentage do they have for Givaudan?

All the project are important, the difference of "glamour" between them is on the complexity of its formula, on the richness of the ingredients and on the dosing that its coast allows to work. A fine fragrance can count more natural ingredients (generally more expensive) then a product for cleaning the house. By the other side, the composition of a technical fragrance, of a powder soap for clothes, for instance, demands a lot of perfumer knowledge in order the fragrance get to stand out in such hard base and maintaining its performance on the cloth during the washing, the resting on the water, the drying, on the wardrobe...


10 – What would you say about the fragrances for the Brazilian clime that is getting hot and hotter? How to use international fragrances generally more thicken in this country?

This capacity of Brazilian clime guarantees a great space to the national companies that knows well its consumers and offers more adapted fragrances to their taste. The most intense fragrances or even gourmands ones needs, for the Brazilian public to offer also certain freshness. Generally, the Brazilian women rather use more fresh fragrances during the day that offers them a welfare cleaning and freshness sensation; leaving the most intense and seductive for special occasions or during the night when the international fragrances are also welcome!

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