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José Luis de Paula Jr., designer, editor, owner of Cusman Editora and creator of the Award Atualidade Cosmetica: the Award emerged in answer to those that believed in the idea of innovating and investing on technologies and creation
05/08/2006

1 – How many magazines your publish house trades and which are the segments they cover?

Currently we have nine titles. All of them are into the segments of personal hygiene, perfumery and cosmetics. We are acting into the pharma channel as well, with a magazine called ‘More Success, a magazine of very known drugstore - Iguatemi, then we have the Cosmetica magazine, Packing magazine, Cosmetic Technologic magazine, to the raw material and technology segment, the Year-Book on cosmetics information, Cosmetica Logistica magazine and Cosmetic  - Sales Promotion magazine.

2 – When did you started these publishing activities and why a designer were interested about it?

The publish house has 13 years. We have started with the magazine Cosmetica. I was scholarship holder on Senai, of graphic arts and also I have studied graphic arts in Paris.  It was there that I developed a fondness for perfumery and specialized on design for perfumery. 

3 – When did you perceived the need of creating the Atualidade Cosmetica Award?

After I was back in Brazil, until the moment I made the magazine and until the award, many things have happened. The director of the São Paulo Art Museum MASP, Pietro Maria Bardi, introduced me to Aparício Basílio da Silva, at that time owner of the Rastro perfumery, which really started the business on perfumery in the country. From that I have entered into the perfumery business through Rastro.  In hommage to this man I created the award category Aparício Basílio da Silva, of fragrance houses creations for male and female perfumes.
When I started to make critics in relation to the quality of the Brazilian products, I´ve started to make the magazine and to expose to the people this need on improving and to incorporate new technologies. That’s how it emerged the Award Atualidade Cosmetica: in reply to the entrepreneurs that believed on the idea of innovating and investing on technologies and creation.


4 – Who are your main partners in the award?

The great partners of this project are the houses of fragrances which believed since the beginning on the project.

5 – Since the beginning there was the auditor office? How it was instituted?

No, the Award was created in 1993, we are on the 14° Edition and the auditor office Price WaterHouse Cooper (the same of the Oscar), happens since the year 2000. A Price WaterHouse Cooper turned evident the suitableness of the prize. It doesn’t attended and don’t attend to any particular interests, unless the market interests.


6 – Who participates of the Jury and why?

It participates the own professionals of the market. Nobody better then them to decide what the market better products are. It is a democratic Prize with professionals of several areas and companies. One of the prizes - Aparício Basílio da Silva – is judged in time of the show. The people enter, choose the fragrances and vote. We also promote a election with the consumer public, on strategic points of Sao Paulo city for the prize of Best Male and Female Fragrance – Popular Jeri.


7 – How much time it take to prepare it and who is the one who does this work?

It is something that happens the whole year. My son Auâni Cusma de Paula nowadays is in charge of it. There is a work of the Council, with evaluation models etc. When an award ends it already starts the other, because the house of fragrances presents every year the smelling trends.
 

8 – How many categories the award Atualidade Cosmetica includes?

There are 19 categories, two of them dedicated to the award Aparício Basílio da Silva, which are from the houses of fragrances, 6 perfumery categories, 4 of cosmetic products, 3 for companies and one for the professional of the year. We are introduzing a new category this year, still with no name, to award also the work of the fragrance distributors.

9 – Why there is the category Executive of the Year and how it is measured?

It is the market vote. This prize started as Entrepreneurial Personality of the Year. It was a prize of Abihpec - indication and this ended up restricting the category. At a certain moment we decided that the professionals of the market should decide. So we indicated 3 or 4 professionals (presidents and executives). To them we eliminate this limitation of being only presidents and executives and we started to award professionals that had a decisive actuation on the market. We had Paulo Zottolo, from Nivea; Pedro Passos, from Natura, Silvana Cassol, when she was yet from O Boticario, among the most recent. Miguel Krigsner, president of O Boticario won when the prize was restricted to the entrepreneurial of the year. The market is sovereign. And the prize is a patrimony of it. 
I would like to point out that the prize is incorporating the international participation, besides the companies from Latin America that the award also contemplates; last year we have received the creator of Angel, by Thierry Mugler. This year we invited more professionals of the international market.

10 – As the Fifi Award the perfumery category is valued a lot, maybe more then the skincare ones which involves state of art technology? Why?

We value both of them. We had to give a great value to the skincare category, because Brazil has vocation on the phytocosmetic area, exactly because of the Brazilian biodiversity. We have to value and incentive this advantage and the prize attends this.

11 – Even with the Award Embanews, the packaging prizes are also very expected. This segment, the suppliers’ one wouldn’t be resentful of recognition?

I think yes. The packaging award Feras da Embalagem comes to attend to this. It is another apt and democratic prize. When we give the prize, the people know that the award was audited.  I think yes. The professionals of the area fell resent, but in fact they win indirectly when their clients win. Because it is a matter of an incentive and recognition prize. All the market will comment and the professional will win money with it.

12 – Does any other kind of prize are on the way? Or it will be created new categories?

We are creating now the award more success (Mais Sucesso), turned to the Pharma channel. It’s a matter of the brands that were most detached in this segment. Brazil have 53 thousand drugstores and I see this way the only possibility of growth of the cosmetic sector for business expansion. There is a lack of perception of the cosmetic and perfumery industry on producing to this market. Products of skincare, treatment more specifically, the cosmoceutics, which are already included on the dermatologic category.

13 – You certainly have your own ideas about the market. What’s in your opinion is being missed to the Brazilian cosmetic market right now?

We will promote now a meeting just to discuss make up with 10 journalists and 10 make-up artists, which will discuss the course of the make-up segment, because the market doesn’t move forward. The make up market in Brazil is reduced to lipstick, even because of the Brazilian consumer that prefers a more natural make-up. Brazil needs to have a treatment make-up, corrective, therapeutic, dermatologic.  This is the future.

14 – How a person which studied to be designer has this perception for the cosmetic sector?

I had to have it to survive.

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