Grows green trend at FCE Cosmetique 2012
National - 06/04/2012
About three years ago, there were not many environmentally friendly, organic or sustainable products options available on FCE Cosmetique, an international supplier fair for the cosmetic market, but in FCE 2012, held last week (29-31) what we saw were many products multifunction, from renewable sources and technologies that replace synthetic products. They were brought to the country by a large number of national distributors that now represent many international companies.
The green footprint definitely arrived in the country, but not exactly by the demand of a market that still experiences its purchasing power before making environmentally friendly choices. Price is still a deciding factor and the absorption of new technologies and 'green' products is still expensive.
In fact, developing a totally organic product in the country is still complicated - either by legislation and certification that this type of product demand or by the own product implementation.
We list below some of these products and also some technological highlights of the FCE.
Following the trend Sarfam, distributor of international brands in Brazil brought Unilucent PA13, a natural skin standardizing complex, which inhibits the production of melanocytes, very gentle and non-irritating to the skin, compared to kojic acid. Another highlight was his 24 K Gold Line Golden Power 955 and the new technology in adhesive for hyaluronic acid, with the MPF HYALOVEIL of long lasting hydration for hair and skin.
The financial crisis in many parts of the world has made Brazil - and its cosmetics market, which grows at double digits for 15 years - a route more than attractive for the large companies supplying inputs. Thus, about 24 000 trade visitors estimated by the fair organizers (NurembergMesse) could have contact with what have of very latest in Brazil and worldwide, especially in terms of green technologies.
The point is that the middle and poor class, the great majority of the cosmetics market in the country has a limited purchasing power and the Brazilian cosmetic companies, but strive to insert the green concept in its products, need to find the ideal formula for it happen without losing by sight these consumers.
For the Santa Catarina company of tubes and bottles, Embale, this concept is not yet a priority: "It is clear that the green wave has already arrived in the country and it is the way to follow, but at the moment we are concerned more with quality and the innovative design that we print in our products, and that conquer our customers, "says Paulo Medeiros Junior, from the company's commercial department. The company took to FCE its line Simpol of cylindrical bottles, whose detail is the cover that practically is melted to the bottle. Its top is oval on the outer part and cylindrical inside.
But Oxiteno, a producer of surfactants and chemical specialties, returned to FCE after six years with the concept of Greenformance, guideline for the company's researchers to develop innovative and sustainable solutions, with raw materials from vegetal and renewable sources. They are biodegradable and multifunctional products that provide smoothness to the cosmetics products. In addition to promote his new position, the company launched in the fair, ALKONT ® EL 3645, an ethoxylated ester whose raw materials come from corn sugar and fatty acids. The new product actuates as a thickener in cosmetic formulations and is suitable for cold formulation and compatible with formulations at hot.
"We pride ourselves in being able to report that 20% of our raw materials are renewable and about 35% of our products contain raw materials from renewable sources," says Mauricio Lopes, manager of the business of Home & Personal Care Oxiteno, which in the last five years invested US$ 731 million in innovation and new products.
Wheaton Brasil, a national leader in the supply of glass containers for the segments of Perfumery, Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals, and one of the top five facilities specialized in these segments in the world, was present at the event to maintain its relationships, and to prospect new customers, but it took advantage of the event to show developments in its field of decoration, enhanced by the purchase of German machinery. Comapany brought interesting options in its portfolio, such as photographic prints and colors for your glass flasks in various forms of application, especially in the neon jars. In addition, the company displayed its logo commemorating the 60 years in 2012.
M.Cassab participated of the FCE in order to establish the group as a distributor of cosmetic and pharmaceutical specialties, with enphasis on the product Juventide, of rejuvenating action superior to retinol and proven effectiveness in reducing wrinkles and increasing skin elasticity and firmness.
Cosmotec came to FCE with a concept that seeks a healthy balance between virtual and real, that proposes the recovery of emotional connection and inspiration through four structural trends of behavior: the mix of nostalgic factors with current and effective solutions of cozy textures and fragrances striking and innovative technologies; the satisfaction of indulgent desires, of sensory experience and focused on comfort and well-being; and solutions of quick or immediate effect, with an emphasis on value and innovation. At FCE the company demonstrated its formulas that fit these proposals, such as the lipstick Clear Color Reveal SPF 25, which together with at the Perfume Stick were obtained through polymer technology biorenovável, The fragrance gel contains a new ingredient that promotes the fixation of the fragrance on the skin, providing long lasting effect. Also noteworthy was Blush Moudable of elastic aspect obtained through the association of of powders, specialty silicones and pigments. The consistency is surprising: soft and velvety.
The Swiss group Lonza, attending the more natural need of cosmetic industry has launched in FCE esters of Polyglycerol, 100% of vegetable origin, which replace synthetic surfactants and emulsifiers. Combining the business of Arch Personal Care and Lonza of fermentation and biotechnology, also brought his Formula Protect ®, of preservatives that meet specific needs. In the interactive website of the company there are options of protection systems for every need.
The Lubrizol highlight was the emulsifyers Glucamate™ and Glucate™, derived from corn. Through a mechanism of association, interact with the surfactant molecules, reducing irritation of the formulations, while conferring desirable rheology. They are ideal for sensitive skin and distinguished by its softness and multifunctional performance. The company also brought the surfactants and Sulfochem ™ and Chemccinate ™ derived from plant sources.
Rhodia and Beraca came to FCE with virtual catalogs. Rhodia in tablet and monitors of self-service, avoiding thus the excessive consumption of paper. The Solvay Group company brought its rheological agent Rheomer ®, a polymer of different texture for suspending particles efficiently , in suspensions that contain lower concentrations of surfactants (2-3%). In the session of experimentation of their formulas promoted in the company's booth, MackproPlus Rice, a rice-based finisher was the highlight.
Beraca presented in its TV screen with touch screen, its releases: powdered extracts from four Amazonian fruits: annatto, acerola, guarana and acai, acai Bio Scrub, an exfoliating natural and organic from seed obtained from fruit and HDE Stilb Touch System - natural enhancer of brightness and color, a natural moisturizer for damaged hair and / or chemically treated.
Company invests in green footprint of its products: "The industry is looking for natural ingredients and technology that meet their customers about sustainability, adding value to their end products," says Vanessa Salazar, commercial manager of Berachah, which also led to FCE and sustainable technology assets from their partners, as Greentech (extracts of violet, rose damascena, pitaya) Dermofeel P-30 Stump 70 nom GMO, Decalat Deo and GO-soft, and the German Dr. Straetmans Bosexil, Gingko Biloba Flavonoids and dimeric Centevita, Indena of Italy.
Dow Brasil has brought its new family of surfactants Eco Sense ™, from the alkyl polyglucosides family, with products derived from plant sources (Ecocert) 100% biodegradable, to help formulators to create products with outstanding sensory performance, high foaming and easy rinse for shampoos, liquid soaps, facial cleansers and baby wipes.
D'Altomare, which turns 40 presented during the FCE the vegetable origin Surfactant from Rhodia, Mackol CAS ® 100 N, derived from coconut oil, 100% active, call for cosmetic formulations with natural apeal, preservative-free, free Dioxane and PEG.
Sensient, ex LCW has presented the Sub MicaMeN , capable of absorbing oil, it forms a natural white gel which provides thickening. And the Sub Mica E, which absorbs water and also forms a white gel. It contains no active tense but with it is possible to make emulsion without emulsifier.
quantiQ brought multifunctional actives of vegetable source for use in capillary formulations, which penetrate in hair thread protecting it from micro injuries caused by brushing. For the segment facial Progeline ™ is a peptide of high technology, a face remodeling launched and award-winning at In-cosmetics (Innovation) that modulates the progerina, marker of aging that reduces the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin.
Evonik brought lines of silicone, surfactants, conditioning agents, emulsifiers, with highlight to the green ones of the line Tego ® Care, of polyglycerol esterified and of emollients, five of them obtained by enzymatic esterification, a process that uses the enzyme, which is more eco friendly, because uses less energy. The launches are: Tegolon ® Eco 10-10, the first particle of polyamide 100% vegetable origin, with high absorption capacity of oil and Tego ® Arjuna S, an active anti age, skin revitalizer, activates the microcirculation, improves skin elasticity and density .
"In five years this is a movement that is been confirming," says Monica Medeiros, of Brazilian Scentec which works with fragrances. "Last year we brought fragrances with ecological interpretation - Aurora Florealis - this year we brought Pantene Nature Fusion, which customers ask for HPPC products and even fragrances, says Monica. Company also bet on the 'pet' market, according to her, a growing market. "Both for hygiene products and for Fine Fragrances," she says. Another market for the company is the marketing olfactory - aromatization of shops, dealerships, gyms and food.
The novelty that Merck, which provides sunscreens, pigments, makeup, active anti-aging, whitening and also repellents took to FCE was its new line of Titanium Dioxide with UVA and UVB. Some specific titanium dioxides have UVA, similar to the zinc oxide.
BASF brought Cetiol® RLF its first soft emollient produced by the enzymatic process, approved by Ecocert and certified by NaTrue. It is suitable for sensitive skin - face and body - people in the third age and babies.
Focus Quimica has brought several products from companies it represents: of Mibelle, actives of biotechnology, such as stem cell apple; of Stéarinerie-Dubois, vegetable esters, Ecocert and synthetics; of the Dutch BRB, silicones; of French Sophim emollients and butters; of Italian Phenbiox plant actives by bioliquefação, among others.
Inventive, distributed by Brandeirante Brazmo, a Brazilian company for development and production of inputs for nanotechnology cosmetics industry took to the FCE Cosmetique their green line produced using 100% of raw materials of plant origin. Among them are Nutrinvent Omega LV which contains omega 3, 6 and 9, Nutrinvent Balance LV, with rosemary, tea tree (malaleuca) and pumpkin seed that controls oiliness of the scalp and skin and Nutrinvent Hair LV, which protects the color of dyed hair with lycopene.
Brenntag has brought its line Avenacare ™ beta glucan, derived from oats, natural way to incorporate rejuvenation and the soothing power of oats in anti-aging products. For hair it increases the brightness, reduces breakage and for sunscreens products it prevents the appearance of skin redness, providing a soothing effect and is rapidly absorbed.
Pochet flask for Mahogany
In the French Pavilion of the fair, Orlandi brought a novelty in perfumery: scented small balls that go into a collection of jewelry by Lisa Hoffman. And Pochet group, for the first time at FCE Cosmetique, showed its latest development for the Braziliancosmetics company Mahogany: Make Me Fever (male and female), a rectangular shaped glass bottle and elongated with emphasis for the modern relief printmaking, with lid in surlyn (Du Pont) produced by IPEL / Qualipac in Brazil.
The C-Pack was highlighted by the launch of its tube100%renewable. According to the company, it is the first tube in Green Polyethylene in the world, extracted from cane sugar, which retains the carbon captured in the environment. In the process, of molasses is fermented and distilled in the plant, to produce ethanol. Through dehydration, ethanol is converted to ethylene and it polymerized into units of polyethylene production: PE Green. Between these two steps there are a eco-efficiency favorable (capture and fixes 2.5 tonnes of CO2 / t EP) and C-Pack transforms the green polyethylene in plastic tubes, and these packages, company says, retain the carbon captured in the environment. The step ends with the recyclability of the tube after the discard.