In fact, with the development of the technology, it appears new products that use actives which interaction with the organism is bigger and proved. Thus these terms, especially cosmoceutics, is being scattered through the market.

Kelia Resende, Galena’s pharmaceutical, major supplier of raw materials for the manipulation and pharmaceutical industry in Latin American market, guarantees that it doesn’t exist the cosmeceutic concept and that the cause of the controversy is because each one have its personal vision about it.

“In fact the cosmoceutic is a product that realizes something utile and advantageous for the organism, which efficacy is measured and proved through several tests in vivo, such as wrinkles diminishing tests, hydration verification tests, anti free radicals tests and several others”, she says. According to her, the majority of the products nowadays, with the function of treating some esthetical problem could be classified as cosmeceutic.

There are those who doesn’t agrees. In truth, all the cosmetics to be able to be launched in the market needs to confirm its efficiency through clinical tests. The nomenclature of cosmoceutic is for cosmetics that tend to pharmaceutics.

What is sure is that the cosmeceutic products are aligned with the dermatologists that prescribe cosmeceutic actives on individual formulations.

“What does the manipulated product to have the possibility of being more efficient then the cosmetic product is the individualization”, says Kelia. “The person goes to the dermatologist, makes a skin analysis and possessing these dates, the doctor prepares  a formulation that treats of the specific problem of the person”, she concludes.

Naturals and Thermals 

Galena commercializes for instance the  Elastinol +R , an active developed by Natura Cosmeticos and disposed to the dermatologists through distributors. It is a biotechnological  active not natural. But Spilol, another active that the company is introducing through its most recent anti-wrinkle cream Chronos Spilol, of proved efficacy by Evich Laboratories, in France, is a natural active, based on a concentrate of jambu, a plant from the Brazilian biodiversity used by Amazonian Indians for tooth pain. “An active ingredient of natural origin can also be classified cosmeceutic, since its efficacy be proved”, says the Galena pharmaceutical.

On the same condition of natural cosmeceutic are the Caudalie products, French brand of products based on established polyphenoes from grape seeds. According to Sergio Dias, Caudalie Trade Marketing manager, a anti free radical 85% more potent then any other of the market. To him, cosmeceutic is the product that acts further a common cosmetic, because it uses more potent active principles and of proved efficacy. Caudalie products represents a business of 1 million of products sold per year, with its 42 items distributed on 30 countries, acquired not only on pharmacies, but on perfumeries and on sale sites.

Vichy, by L´Oreal, is the dermocosmetic brand number one on sales on the pharmacies circuit in Europe. It is distributed to 55 countries, with around 20 million consumers. Its products are formulated with thermal water from the Sao Lucas fountain, in Vichy, in France, which has 17 mineral salts and 13 oligoelements. This thermal water is recognized for its calming and anti-irritant properties, it stimulates skin natural defenses and tolerance.

Another brand which active principles comes from the thermal water is La Roche-Posay, also by L´Oreal, which waters have antioxidant, calming and cicatrizing properties, which efficacy is scientifically proved by clinical studies made by dermatologists.

In Brazil the brand Araxá Cosmetica Thermal, also commercializes cosmetic products from thermal waters of Araxa, in Minas Geraes. They are rich on mineral salts such as calcium, magnesium and sulphur that nourish the skin and helps on the cellular renovation. The products are commercialized through direct sale or through Internet. Its products line includes Dinamizing Water, Black mud Purifying Mask and acne special soaps.

Cosmoceutic or dermocosmetic terms associated to the words treating and to proved efficacy, in fact acts over the consumer – especially those who has some kind of skin sensibility – as a stimulus to the consume.

 According to Kelia Resende, Galena´s pharmaceutical, in Europe the cosmoceutic term is used as marketing. “It is because in reality you get to associate the product to a benefit”.

To Paula Cavalcanti, Dermatus pharmaceutical and marketing manager, cosmetic company, which the origin is the manipulation pharmacy, the cosmoceutic definition or cosmetics have today a limit hard to specify: “The technology evolution allowed inclusive that the cosmetics had other functions, such as allow controlled absorption, what helps cosmetics to have a more complete action”, she says.

The Dermatus cosmeceutic products are products designed to people that are passing through treatment, states Paula. “Our marketing is focused to doctors; however our products are on sale on our Rio de Janeiro’s pharmacies and distributors all over the country”.

“It is a different channel, a different positioning, we sell to the public, but there is an orientation on the pharmacy in order to indicate people searches for a dermatologist”.