The products of the male hygiene and beauty routine over the last few years have been undergoing subtle changes, closely linked to the behavioral change of men. Today the long beard was incorporated into this new male profile, including the emergence of specialized salons in design and treatment of beards and hair. There are new antiperspirant male deodorants for those who train and practice sports, or those that last up to 48 hours, as well as multifunctional products for bathing, treatment, products of Brazilian biodiversity and even men’s soaps and intimate deodorants.
Faced with so many products and the interest for perfumes – freshest here in Brazil, but now incorporating body products such as deodorants and line perfume soaps, which are not always so fresh – reconciling different fragrances ends up being a task neither always simple. Combining grooming fragrances – ,those used for various types of men’s toiletry and treatment products – with the fragrances used on a day-to-day basis or the perfumes used at night on more special occasions has become a challenge.
“Despite of respecting the requirements of a briefing, olfactory fragrance is very focused on 2 main attributes: the almost mandatory freshness of this category and the casual aspect that makes the fragrance easy to use and to match the scent of other products which are part of the male beauty routine. It is worth mentioning that sophistication has been a relevant point and well considered by brands, who increasingly seek to disassociate the image of these fragrances from simply functional and aseptic notes, “says Milena Siqueira, Marketing Manager for Fragrances at the French Perfume House Mane.
According to Abihpec – Brazilian Association of Personal Care, Perfumery and Cosmetics Industry, the country’s fragrance sector is expected to register a real increase in sales between 1% and 3% this year, compared to 2016. And data from global market research firm Euromonitor, point to the growth in the volume of ingredients for fragrances in beauty and personal care, which should be 2.3% this year, with a forecast of a high of 3.6% in 2018.
According to Milena, the grooming fragrances were characterized by aseptic and functional notes, very clean, very associated with after shave products. “Basically fougères, traditional aromatic structures. This type of fragrance has evolved a lot, gained more perfumed and sophisticated facets, with even oriental and amber nuances, but never losing its original freshness, its essence and heritage, “says Milena Siqueira.
In short, the two fragrances must harmonize. It is common is to use deodorants without perfume, with the perfume preferred for the night. Or hygiene products from the same brand of perfume.
What often happens is that there is not always the line developments of the chosen perfume brand, or vice versa, a perfume for the preferred soap or deodorant. For international options, often their complementary lines (soap or shower gel, shaving cream and deodorant) do not reach the country, since importers do not always consider such products to be profitable. A portion of the male audience ends up opting for the moderate application of body sprays, of more intense perfume, but without the antiperspirant action.
“Whether it’s in the Brazilian or international market, the perfumery olfactory codes for men have always kept the grooming fragrances, which are nothing more than the freshness similar to the aromatic structure of the aftershave products. However, it is important to point out that this branch of perfumery can be more extensive than imagined, and is growing more and more, emphasizing the blends of fruit and oriental notes in an unusual way, “says Mathilde Champetier, associate director of fragrance development from Firmenich, citing national examples: Egeo Bomb For Him, from O Boticario – leather and caramel, brings colony and body moisturizer on the line – Impression, Eudora brand – cardamom, white pepper, leather and woody notes
Quasar Surf de O Boticário
For her it is possible to explore this olfactory world in a broader way: “In this wave of modernity, we find variations around male freshness including: icy spices, transparent, aquatic and woody facets that do not fail to transmit force and virility, translating sophistication and fluidity “Says Mathilde, exemplifying with the Eau de Parfum Zaad Mondo – fresh with a fruity touch combined with woody notes and also a chord of Blue Juniper – with its Antiperspirant Aerosol and deo colony Quasar Surf – a mix of flowers Pacific, Atlantic algae and Oceania woods, which also features a Body Spray, both O Boticario‘s fragrances.
Essencial Elixir, Natura
The freshness maintained in the national male fragrances is also influenced by other countries. Thus, according to Mathilde, Brazilian perfumers adopt and risk differentiated notes, such as the development of Essential Elixir, by Natura – with classic and woody notes combined to the intensity of leather – and Tharros, development for the Brazilian market of Korres – a aromatic Fougére, with Pink Pepper, Lentisco and Sandalwood. “The freshness will never cease to be one of the most familiar and indispensable elements, guaranteeing greater acceptance and preference of the fragrances,” she states.
Tharros, by Korres
Olivier Paget, perfumer of the German fragrances Drom Fragrances believes the perfumery products of men continue with fragrances qualified as “fresh” or, not cloying because it is the search for the well-being, by the freedom that lead the use products.
“The fresh notes will be created on top of the Fougères family, whose ingredients contain notes of Lavender, Geranium Palmarosa, Bergamot and Tonka bean, mainly,” he says. “Volatile notes can be enlarged with citrus freshness, or geranium can be reduced to use more transparent masculine floral notes, or the trend of modern amber notes, very common in the last 5 years,” he says.
We must also consider a differentiation between products that are sold in supermarkets and pharmacies and those that are bought in franchised stores or by direct and online sales – of premium products and grooming of popular products. “The distinction, among the types of sale, ends up distinguishing the products, Topline or popular. This is normal, because of the purchasing power of the consumer, “says the perfumer.
For Olivier in the grooming perfumery there are certain masculine notes that detach. “We have the new freshness, which has existed for more than 20 years, due to the overdose use of the molecule of Dihydromyrcenol, (Davidoff’s Cool Water 1988); (Dior Homme Sport 2008) and we have the combination of ozone notes combined with modern amber ingredients that bring a certain “dry” masculinity (Invictus 2013).