Hombre hair – Style of wicks made in some sort of tone on tone, from the middle to the ends.
Illuminated Brunette – clearly subtle. The shape of wicks will be according to the type of hair. It is two shades lighter than the natural base.
Traditional Hair Lights or Lights – from the Root – Wicks made from root to tips with uniform color.
Blur or erase from the root – Format of traditional or not, with the root tinted with the intermediate color, the natural color of the hair and of the hair streaking
Hair contour – hair wicks located in front of the hair and on the sides, which transmits lightness to all the hair and some lighter ends too.
These coloring techniques are well known in any salon. They are increasingly demanded, especially by women, but it is quite common to find boys on the street or even between store sellers (from lighting to fashion stores) who opt for a different and ‘personal’ look.
There are variations and inventions every day, depending on the technique, creativity and professionalism of the colorist, who can create at the time a way to hide a very clear or very divided reflection without the subtlety of the more natural light.
“The woman of the tinted little box no longer exists, the monochrome no longer exists. Coloring brands need to reinvent themselves. They need the effect and technique so that they can have less uniform hair, “says Eron Araujo, hairstylist and requested colorist of his homonimous salon in one of the most luxurious districts of São Paulo.
For him, even blondes need that be create effects that leave their hair looking healthier and the coloring has durability. “What we do is create an intermediate color, between her natural color and the color she chose. So when that happens, you’re creating a way for the color of that hair to last from 2 to 3 months and therefore allow the hair to go through less chemistry, become healthier, with less hair loss and less breakage. ”
“We have been able to open the wicks with different nuances, even because usually the outside part of the threads (exposed to the sun etc), already tends to be clearer, so the wicks lighten more easily. Therefore, often using the same product, it will become clearer in these areas. In the inside of the hair, the coloration tends to become more closed. I can also change the hue by the “volumagem” of the oxidant. With the same product, like the blondor, use with a 20 volume or 40 volume oxidizer. The 40 will reveal a much clearer wick than the 20, “explains Gabriela Balan, a colorist at TP Beauty Lounge (RJ).
What you actually see is that the saloons are crowded with customers wanting a highlighting hair look, the color of their hair half burned, less plated color. Whether they are sallons in upscale shopping malls, luxurious or simpler neighborhoods, almost all women are opting for more color mixed hair with diverse shades that end up giving the appearance of sunbathing and that the hair look natural.
Women are looking for products that contain as little chemistry as possible, only what is needed to operate what they are seeking for, the rest should be in natural actives that treat hair and make it shiny and healthy. Durability is also a very desirable additive. That is, the search is for creativity, innovation and efficiency.
“Today’s woman does not have more time to retouch her hair every 15 days. That does not exist anymore, “Eron says. “We need to create colorations that attribute health, with beautiful and natural effect, above all practical, so that the woman is not slave to touch-ups,” states Araujo.
Younger women have already tried practically all these techniques, but it is women over 50 who are more assiduous in salons and certainly contributed to the new techniques of coloration in search of a more youthful and natural appearance, with lighter or brighter hair, even if they the brunettes, since there is a technique to achieve the beauty desire of each woman.
“The woman is living today a very liberating moment. “They take on the white hair regardless of whether they look older or not. Any look is worth as long as the hair is beautiful and well treated. However, women who dye their hair do not like to be always inside the salon nor to damage them with so many hair colour, ” evaluates Eron.
Women over 50 are actually going through a delicate time, not just in appearance. With the onset of menopause, there is a decrease in the hormones, estrogens, which interferes in the capillary cycle. The cycle becomes smaller, compromising even the natural hydration.
“What happens, according to Dr. Marcela Buchaim, biochemical pharmacist specializing in trichology, of the personalized Buchaim SPA, is that the production of the sebum capillary starts to dry a bit more up and the natural hydration of the thread decreases, once the gland sebaceous is coupled to the hair follicle and it is she who does this lubrication. The last layer of the thread, which we call the lipid layer, is compromised. So if the yarn does not have natural hydration and the hair goes through an aggressive chemical process, like the hair highlighting, which needs to have a very high PH, there is a removal of the lipid layer from the yarn. The hair gets more rigid, it has no emollience, she explains. ”
Still according to the trichologist, when these hair highlightings increase, the production of amino acids at the capillary level decreases, because their metabolism is getting smaller. “The absorption of nutrients from food decreases. As a result, there is a loss of essential actives for the formation of this hair fiber. These amino acids need to be replenished to avoid thinning the thread and breaking it more often.
The care and treatment of these hair passes through the amino acids. “I need to work with these amino acids and mineral salts. There are customised formulas that I apply both on the scalp – depending on the tricoscopy I make – and on the thread when you have a chemical cut, caused by a high Ph, as a result of these hair coloring.
After the hair tonners without ammonia, but not permanent, it cames up little by little some colorations of organic appeal, in some countries and also in Brazil. Henna is a natural alternative but of little durability because it is based on pigments that are deposited on the cuticle. To dye the hair is necessary to enter the cortex, which is the capillary mass, causing discoloration of the natural pigment, melanin.
“So this is certainly not all organic that does because it takes different Phs to penetrate the cortex and make a chemical reaction called oxidation reduction. However there are brands like Keune, which uses natural plant actives, but it uses the Monetanolamine, which is a basic solution to make that cuticle opening to penetrate the coloring. Then we start talking about permanent coloring and not semi-permanent coloring, the hair toners,” explains
What we find in the country are products that help to treat hair that have received the most diverse coloring techniques and need greater hydration.
Colorist Gabriela Balan, uses Velaplex, which protects the thread and is a treatment before, during and after coloring. It ensures that there are reconstruction treatments to moisturize any type of yarn, whether colored, discolored or smoothed.
The launch Morrocanoil Tip Repair Infusion, from Marrocan Oil that acts as an instant shaper for the threads recovering the appearance of the dry and brittle tips, leaving a healthy appearance. (R $ 249.00)
Lumina,new hair treatment brand from Natura, with technology developed from biomimetics and with biotechnology, provides precision capillary treatment, in the right measure for each wire damage and with results from the first application, company guarantees. The Reconstruction line is for extreme damage to the wires. Recovers even texture, reduces double ends and breaks.
Shampoo Bumble and bumble Color Minded, ultra soft shampoo, developed especially for colored and discolored hair, helps clean the wires and scalp while preserving color and shine. The conditioner cleans, hydrates lightly and ensures volume and softness to the hair. Its formula brings a combination between Panthenol and polymers that guarantee volume, body and hydration to the hair. Developed especially for the colored threads, its use brings back hydration and softness to the hair, in addition to not containing parabens, phthalates, mineral oils and formaldehyde in its composition.
Galena brings to the country Nutrosa®, an intelligent liquid silicon, which collaborates for threads nutrition. Provides supplementation of orthosilicic acid to the organism. Promotes the synthesis of collagen, elastin and keratin. Provides strength, elasticity, resistance and volume to the hair. It is a complex formed between orthosilicic acid in its highly bioavailable form stabilized in choline and responsible for increasing the synthesis of the so called “beauty proteins”: collagen, keratin and elastin, providing improvement of the skin, hair and nail. In addition to contributing to increase synthesis and stabilize glycosaminoglycans.