Organic products advance in the world and in Brazil as well. The biodiversity that the country has, is increasingly attracting international companies in search of active, oils and essences from our biodiversity, a market that grows every day in the international market. And the world’s growing demand for organic products, opens the way for a market that Brazil is able to meet, since the regulations for organic products in the country in 2007. The same does not happen however with the brands of organic cosmetics, since for the final product there is no specific legislation.
The culture and marketing of organic products in Brazil were approved by Law 10,831 of 23 December 2003. Its regulation, however, occurred only on 27 December 2007 with the publication of Decree No. 6,323. According to MAPA – Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Supply of Brazil’s government. The Ministry specifies that the main feature of organic products is not to use pesticides, chemical fertilizers or synthetic substances that harm the environment. Above all, to be considered organic, the production process need to have responsible use of soil, water, air and other natural resources while respecting social and cultural relations. Brazil already occupies the leading position in world production of organic.
According to a study of Organic Monitor – information and marketing company specializing in organic products – the organic cosmetics industry generates nearly US $ 9 billion worldwide, representing 2% of the total market. In Brazil we do not see representative surveys on the consumption of organic and vegan cosmetics, since there is no specific legislation for these categories. They are private institutes that determine their specific criteria. However, Tina Gill, Marketing Manager of Organic Monitor points out: “Sustainability goes far beyond natural and organic ingredients in cosmetic formulations It encompasses transparency in supply chains, production and distribution, as well as social aspects.”.
In Brazil, the market size of organic products is around R $ 2 billion (around US $ 637 million) for the entire chain – from cosmetics, food, active ingredients and raw materials, estimates Organics Brazil, international promotion program of sustainable organic producers , promoted by Apex-Brazil. The great lode is the one of food, but the active ingredients, raw material and essences – all linked to the cosmetics market – emerge on the international market, especially if they are from the Brazilian biodiversity.Beraca, a world leader in Brazilian biodiversity actives is paving the way for this market, with the participation in international fairs, its principles of sustainability and the supplying of such actives to companies from around the world. And the organic certification is commanding and moving this market.
Foreign companies came to Rio de Janeiro in May this year to close deals with organic producers in the fourth edition of the Green River / Organic River, business platform of organic and sustainable products. Representatives import products to Scandinavia, Colombia and Peru and, according to organizers of the fair, they are interested in exotic fruits from the Amazon cosmetics and organic versions of traditional products such as coffee.
“In cosmetics there are regulamentation just for cosmetic raw materials, such as extracts, oils and actives. But not for the final product. As in great part of the cosmetics the parcel of water is large, this composition of organic ingredients over the end product is that is unclear, “points out Ming Liu, executive coordinator ofOrganics Brazil – Brazilian Organic and Sustainable Producers, with headquarters in Curitiba, in IPD offices, Institute for Development Promotion, the organization responsible for national implementation of the program.
In the international market the rate of growth of the organic market has been around 9% to 13% compared to foreign markets. In Brazil, the rate is higher, at around 35% due to our recent regulation, “says Liu, who is from the regulations that arise market rules and consequently begin the investments.
In the US and Europe this growth took place after 2004. In Brazil only in 2011. “This time lag has made the Brazilian market stayed stagnant But the offer has grown significantly -. 25% to 30% per year, “says the coordinator of the Organics Brazil.
The Organics Brazil project is sectoral and connected to Apex. It has similar performance to Abipec (Brazilian Association of the Perfumery Industry, Cosmetics and Toiletries ) and his Brazilian Beauty program, which promotes Brazilian cosmetic companies abroad. The Organics Brazil project, however, promotes and sells exclusively organic products and vegans (who do not use animal testing or animal actives). It actuates not only in the cosmetics segment, but food, beverages, textiles, services, etc. Currently represents companies such as: Beraca, ingredients from Brazilian biodiversity and Polióleos, of pressed vegetable oil and derivatives and cosmetic companies Ikove Organics (former Florestas) andSurya Brazil.
According to Ming Liu for being a new market, there is much to be done. “There’s a whole work of image construction abroad and insertion of Brazilian products in the markets. In addition, our work is of equivalence, since the countries currently are working on a mutual recognition of certification equivalencies” he tells.
The movement for organics began in the 70s, with Mokiti Okada Foundation, which arrived in the country with their organic crops for the food market. The organics have origin in anthroposophy which came from Europe in the 70s through the Tobias Foundation, founded in Botucatu (SP) by a group of businessmen. And it is in Botucatu which was founded in 1982 IBD Certifications, the largest organic certifier in Latin America. Since 2001, in Brazil is also present the international certification Ecocert, founded in France in 1991 and present in more than 50 countries. Its office is in Florianópolis, SC and it follows the rules of the Brazilian Ministry of Agriculture for certification, unlike the matrix in France.
The movement of organic products and raw materials comes from the 80s and the IBD has emerged to meet the demand of importers in Europe which needed that the products were in conform to the laws of American and European markets. The ideas had complemented themselves to the one of Foundation Mokiti Okada and the consumer public started to value the concept of organic and converted themselves.
Today, according to Brazilian law, so that foreign producers can market their products in Brazil as “Organic” must be certified by an accredited certification from the Ministry of Agriculture, Livestock and Supply – MAPA, and meet the specific Brazilian standards. Products certified by international standards (such as NOP, EU, JAS) are not automatically recognized as organic.
In the Brazilian market the movement for organic cosmetics begins to take shape. The main representatives are the Surya Brazil, specializing in natural Hennas and other products for hair and body segments. It has office and factory in the US and sells its products in about 30 countries. And Ikove Organics, founded in 2002, present in 10 Brazilian states, in addition to the e-commerce. It also exports to Australia, Canada, United Arab Emirates, United States and France. It operates in the body, facial and hair segments in addition to aromatherapy with essential and vegetable oils.
“Despite the lack of regulations for organic, there is no doubt that Brazilian consumers are becoming better informed, more critical and even is influence for making international public decisions. However, it is undeniable that being present in more than 40 countries such as Holland, Germany, Czech Republic, Slovakia, the Philippines and Japan, gives credibility to the brand in Brazil. The fact that we have distribution in the US and we are the only company of Brazilian cosmetics present in 95% of American territory also generates more public interest here. ” said Clelia Angelon, owner of Surya Brasil brand.
There is also the Cativa Natureza, founded in 2008, which produces and sells cosmetics with organic inputs tracked. It offers a complete line of products certified by IBD, Ecocert and Tecpar(Paraná). In addition to clays and minerals active ingredients (mineral pigments makeup) of Terramater, producer of organic minerals for use in cosmetics.
There is also the Cativa Natureza, founded in 2008, which produces and sells cosmetics with organic inputs tracked. It offers a complete line of products certified by IBD, Ecocert and Tecpar (from Parana state)and do not test its products in animals. It also provides clays and minerals active ingredients (mineral pigments for make-up) of Terramater, producer of organic minerals for use in cosmetics.
“Gattefossé has focused on natural and organic segment, since, globally, there is a growing consumer awareness and increased concern for health and environmental causes and sustainability, moreover, we see an expansion of diversification of products and ingredients high efficiency in this segment “says Amanda Pimentel, business development manager of Gattefossé Brazil and in South America.
Gattefossé has a very extensive line with Ecocert certifications, NPA and Cosmos. Since the line of functional emulsifiers (Emulium® mellifera Emulium® Kappa2), textures agents (Compritol® 888 CG, Lipocire ™ A, Acticire® and actives as the line of vegetable waters (Original Extract), Gatuline, among others.
Beraca offers – Beracare BBA, the new active 100% natural and organic certified for bleaching the skin with anti-aging benefits. It contributes for the reduction of melanin synthesis. The product also stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid and contributes for the increasing the network density of the dermis collagen fiber, providing a firming effect, besides deeply moisturize the skin. The company also offers the oils of Andiroba (of anti-inflammatory action and moisturizer ); Buriti ( of anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory action, is rich in carotenoids and vitamin A-Pro); Chestnut-the-Brazil oil (emollient action); Murumuru butter (emollient and moisturizing action); Patua oil (powerful moisturizing agent, can act as a moisturizing agent in the treatment of scalp, because it possesses high oleic acid content (75%)) and cupuacu butter (moisturizing action and recovery of skin elasticity).
Chemyunion offers Melscreen Coffee El Deo Org, produced from the extraction of the green beans of the organic coffee, organic certified by Ecocert that conforms to the American and European legislation. This active presents a standardization in diterpenic esters, being used in formulations for skin care for its anti-oxidant activity, potentializing protection against UV light, anti-erythematic activity proven in vivo, aiding the prevention of the skin aging process.
Symrise enables Symrise Actipone® / Extrapone® Organicproducts consist of extracts from organically grown plants and vegetable Glycerin and water or organic Maltodextrin as carrier substance. Enables yet the line Allplant Essence® a range of colorless, preservative free certified organic ingredients.