Cleanse the face twice or more? The Asian women are right. Nowadays, with the effects of pollution on the skin, bases, compact (or loose) powders, shadows, lipsticks, blushes and eyelash masks – all with richer pigmentation, and yet, with more adherent sunscreens besides the daily anti-aging creams, the skin cleansers need to be very effective to account for a deeper cleansing, before the woman moves on to the step of the night cream in her night beauty routine. In Asia, especially in Korea, women have adopted double cleansing for the daily beauty routine by morning or at night, this greater rigor with skin cleansing is not unfounded. For this reason it has been spreading throughout the world. Even in Brazil, where bloggers have identified and assumed dual skin cleansing.
A deep cleaning needs an efficient cleaner, or a double cleansing, using more of the same product or a two-phase oil-based cleanser to dissolve more adherent make-up – or protective products, as well as with detergent properties, for removal both the oiliness and the pollution and dirt remaining from the makeup.
Who best explains the various types of cleaners is the Research & Development manager at Oxiteno Cristiane Canto: “From a composition point of view, skin cleansing products can be divided into three groups: anhydrous or emulsion products, predominantly composed of vegetable or mineral esters and oils; Hydro-alcoholic products consisting of mixtures of alcohol and water and different proportions and may also contain emollients and humectants, such as glycerin; are often intended for application as tonics and astringents for the face, usually indicated for the completion of the skin cleansing process, for the removal of residual soap or oil remaining on the skin and Liquid soaps, bar soaps, cleaning gels, foams by their foaming ability during application and by requiring rinsing after application. ”
Without realizing the Brazilian women already proceed to the double cleansing. It is impossible to just stay in a cotton – cleaning or tonic. The dirt does not come out on the first time, on the second one or even more times. Reminding that more of the same products are being used for skin cleansing. Or, it are used 2 different products for cleaning and another for toning.
It is the paper tissues (most comfortable and practical at night), liquid cleansers and face cleansers that need to be rinsed, or biphasic creams and cleansers for cotton removal that are most used in winter. The fact is that one do not take off your makeup easily anymore.
“The Double Cleansing technique is necessary, since dirties caused by make-up, filters and pollution are not easily removable by the aqueous medium alone. The use of a product / solvent makes removal of heavier substances that obstructs the skin more effective and, after washing with water, removes excess of the cosmetic. We currently have a formulation with the active Vegelight Silk, a 100% vegetable-derived coconut-derived green alkane that gives greater softness and hydration, does not leave the skin shiny and can be suitable for sensitive skin, “says Christiane Neves, Manager of Internal of Brenntagla.
For Mirela Seixas, medical segment marketing manager at Adcos, although it may be helpful in some situations, the double cleansing is not necessary for all. “It mainly depends on the type of skin and the type of makeup or toning product the woman uses. Formerly the cleansers were oil based and have long been recognized as ideal for cleansing the skin. However, there are currently advanced technologies that allow deep cleansing, often superior to oily products, and which are oil free, can be used on all skin types. “However, she admits:” At times where the makeup used is very heavy, the suggestion is to apply the same product twice to ensure the complete cleaning. ”
The brand of dermocosmetics brings in its portfolio the Neutral Cleansing Gel formulated with a surfactant that deeply cleanses the skin, removes makeup and waterproof products, is oil free, contains aloe vera and green tea that provide hydration and antioxidant action. It also offers the Acne Solution Soap that cleans, removing dead cells, with actives that help control the oiliness of the skin; a Micellar Water, which cleans with depth and includes active moisturizing and probiotic in its composition, to regenerate and stimulate the defense of the skin. And yet the soothing Cleansing Soap with Vitamin C, which cleanses, moisturizes and ensures potent antioxidant action with the inclusion of Vitamin C in the formulation.
O Boticário brings the Make B. Toning Cleansing Mousse 2 in 1, takes care of two fundamental steps for the care of face skin: cleansing and toning. The product helps in the removal of impurities, toxins and skin pollution, thus preventing pore clogging. Its rich and soft foam is refreshing, toning the skin and moisturizes, leaving soft touch; Make B. Biphasic Cleanser, for the removal of waterproof makeup. A two-phase make-up remover that, in addition to taking away residues, also moisturizes and nourishes the skin, as it contains vitamins in its formula. By mixing the two phases, the make-up remover turns into a light emulsion, which leaves the skin completely clean and soft. (R $ 52.90). Micellar Fluid, with micelles that absorb waste, efficiently removing impurities and makeup without attacking the skin. Dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested, the demaquilante contains extract of violet and bisabolol, that provide hydration and calming effect to the skin (R $ 44,90). The brand also offers the Intense Makeup Remover Liquid Soap to be used during the bath. Easily removes makeup while cleansing the skin by controlling oiliness. (R $ 35.90).
For Mariana Yamamoto of the Trade marketing of Chemyunion, most makeups and sunscreens have high adherence to the skin and are mostly water resistant. “The consumer will spend more to perform proper skin cleansing. However this additional expense is justified by the benefits that the deeper cleansing provides to your health. ”
“A surface cleaning leaves residue that will stay anchored. A second cleansing with facial tonics, micellar waters or deep cleansing agents promotes the removal of these residues, slowing down the aging process of the skin; minimizing irritation caused by the cumulative effects of substances and of pollutants particles , “adds Mariana.
Mitochondrial detoxification influences cell viability, maintenance and functionality of skin structures as well as the lower likelihood of topical reactivity to chemicals.
Chemyunion, based on the relevance of the concept of detoxification, has developed MitoClean, an ingredient composed of vectorized coconut water rich in vitamins and minerals essential for the proper functioning of the detoxification process in the skin. The active ingredient is rich in vitamins B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B7 and B9 essential for the metabolic pathways of mitochondrial detoxification, MitoClean also contains essential inorganic ions such as selenium, zinc, copper and manganese that act as catalysts of the skin antioxidant enzymes.
The skincare brand Anna Pegova brings to the country the Nettoyante Mousse au Thé Vert et à la Verveine, a facial cleansing foam with Green Tea and Verbena, a combination that provides cleanliness, freshness and softness to the skin. (R $ 108.00)
Dual functionality and protection
Glypure ™ glycolic acid manufactured by Chemours, is a cosmetic grade organic acid that has dual functionality (alcohol and acid). It is one of the smallest molecules with these characteristics, is effective in penetrating the skin, helps in hydration and stimulation of cellular activity. Glycolic acid acts in the effect of skin peeling (peeling and cell turnover) that helps in the removal of dead cells.
BASF has two important assets, Purisoft ™ and PatcH2O®. With the ability to form a biofilm in the skin, these actives help the removal and antiadherence of pollutants and environmental stressors through the technology that brings scientifically proven homeostasis to the microbiota. Developed with the function of forming a biofilm, Purisoft ™ acts as a shield to purify the skin and provide an essential defense against the effects of pollution. Enriched with the cationic proteins of the seeds of Moringa and helps to preserve the beneficial microbiota of the skin of the deleterious effect of the pollution PM2.5 (cigarette smoke, exhausts, constructions, ultraviolet rays, among others) and Heavy Metals. In addition, it prevents the adhesion of particles on the skin and preserves the vitality of commensal (beneficial) bacteria when exposed to pollution. PatcH2O® is a unique combination of 3 polysaccharides with filmogenic properties and a moisturizing complex (including NMF components), and acts as both a protective film against pollution and loss of water.
Natura presents in its potfólio, the Cleansing Soap Deep, formulated especially for mixed skins to oily. The product deeply cleans pores with gentleness, helping to control skin oiliness for 6 hours. Contains Salicylic Acid, for a deep cleaning of the pores, Cupuaçú Betaine, a tensioactive from the Brazilian biodiversity, with the same potential of common cleansers, but with the softness of the natural ingredients, besides fragrance that promotes well-being sensation. (R $ 49.80).
The brand also developed the Revitalizing Concentrate, with exclusive anti-pollution and anti-stress technology, which repairs the damage caused by these external factors, stimulates natural defenses and slows down the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes and sagging. Its oil texture, has dry and velvety touch, ideal for all skin types. “Our researchers studied the chemical composition of various oils of Brazilian biodiversity and the international market. After testing the development of facial products, they selected oils with ultralight texture, perfect for use on the face, without leaving the skin greasy and shiny, “says Maria Paula Fonseca, director of cosmetics at Natura.
Bioré, the Japanese brand of make-up remover, recently arrived in Brazil brought the Facial Makeup Remover Gel, with the innovative technology “Smooth Melty Gel”, which melts the makeup, deeply cleaning the pores. Keeps the face soft and smooth thanks to the moisturizing composition of 58% in its formula. (R $ 73.99). The brand also brought the Facial Makeup Remover Oil, with a unique texture, lightweight and non-sticky, which spreads easily and rinses quickly with water. Formulated with water-compatible ingredients, although oil-based.
It has exclusive technology that forms laminar layers for better dissolution and removal of the makeup. Without leaving residue or oiliness, it can be used during the bath, because it removes the makeup even with the face and wet hands.
According to Cristiane Canto, Oxiteno‘s R & D manager, the main innovations in skin cleansing products are: in the increasing softness of the formulas, a fundamental attribute for the most sensitive skin on the face, which is obtained through selection and correct balancing of the ingredients, mainly of the surfactants; the increasing use of emollients and humectants derived from natural and sustainable raw materials such as vegetable oils; and sensory aspects of the formulation – new textures, gentle exfoliating, skin-warming products, transparency, creaminess of the foam, ease of rinsing and fragrances (or even the absence of them) are essential.
“In terms of surfactants for liquid soaps, gels and mousses, virtually all classes can be used – with emphasis on anionics such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate and sulfosuccinates, which combined with amphoterics such as cocamidopropyl betaine and nonionics such as alkyl polyglucosides , result in formulations with excellent balance of softness, cleaning power and sensory foam. In order to ensure proper consistency and flowability for handling, the use of rheological modifiers / thickeners is important. In this function, Oxiteno offers OXIFLOW S 6800, a mild associative, non-ionic, associative modifier with excellent thickening capacity. In emollients, the main highlight of our portfolio is the OXISMOOTH® line, which consists of 100% emollients derived from renewable raw materials, with high spreadability and dry touch, which guarantee a very pleasant sensory “, highlights the R & D manager of Oxiteno.