After reigning absolute in the preference of Brazilian women, the smooth hairs are giving way to the naturally wavy hair, to the curly and also to the frizzy ones of the Brazilians, who are already retiring the hair strengthener and progressive among other mechanical and chemical modalities to relax in fact assuming what nature gave them gracefully.
Ethnic hair finally valued are being propagated in different models with coloring, different shapes and lengths. But not because of this they no longer need treatment. Precisely for being coiled from the root, this type of hair is naturally more opaque and dried, since the distribution of natural greasiness from the scalp along the wires is more difficult. Also because of the excess volume, they are more difficult to comb and take a bit of oiliness from the root to the tips. Keeping them hydrated is quite a task, but fundamental in order to not present a dry aspect and little malleable for new hairstyles and defined curls that now attract attention on the streets for the beauty that they can show and even give an enhancement to the heads. In addition, researches shows that ethnic hair presents variation in diameter, lower water content and elliptical shape, with structural bends bigger than the Caucasian hairs.
According to research agency Factor-Kline, the professional ethnic market represents 5% of the total of the professional market of hair care. “There is a question behind of this, in a socio-cultural way. It is a certain discovery and appreciation of beauty and of things as they are. Is in line with social and cultural movements and a certain pride of these origins, “says Sergio Rebelo, director of Factor-Kline in Brazil, which developed a specific research on the professional market for ethnic products.
“Factor-Kline sees that this market has different settings in each country. In mature markets is an industry already established, which features more niches with specific products, “says Elaine Gerchon, Project manager at Factor-Kline. “And we look at the professional market globally already well developed, this is an important and sophisticated market, especially in mature markets. And this level of segmentation sooner or later will arrive in Brazil,” believes the analyst.
IBGE – Brazilian Institute of Geography and Statistics – points out: around 40% of the Brazilian population is brown to black. “There are about 50 million people with African characteristics. With this population the amount of hair types in the country is around 300, while overseas there are only eight types of curls. In Brazil 70% of the population has curly hair,” evaluates Elaine.
According to her, in recent years we have seen a change in perception and consumer attitude, probably due to increased knowledge of the long term damage of continuous straightening and high costs for its maintenance. Slowly, part of the african-descendent women are assumng their naturally curly hair, and therefore seeking products and services to take care of their hair, especially treatment products. This movement has directly reflected in the sales sector, which has grown about 30% every year, here in Brazil thanks to the new black consumers demand that are accepting more their curls beyond the influence of famous artists and singers.
“Large companies have difficulty communicating with this market. They still have not found the right tone. And those companies that were traditionally focused on this market, which was niche, have grown,” says Sergio Rebelo.
Thus, we highlight here the latest treatment products as well as styling products available in the market for this type of hair. The recent realization of Beauty Fair only confirmed this trend. Many stands had some products to wash, strengthen, treat, or to leave prettier the curls.
Salon Line, a company for two decades in the market , produces products for processing, coloring, hair care, as well as electrical appliances that help smooth the hair, took to the Beauty Fair a complete line of products for curls of all sizes and resolutions, identified from the packaging. There are 3 styling creams with varying degrees of curling – Que Tal? Cachos dos Sonhos is for wavy and curly hair, with subdivisions – 2A for fine hair and of easy modeling; 2B is for medium wire and defined waves – 2C thicker wire and with more volume and – 3A which is for more open and defined curls. Que Tal? Crespo Divino is the cream to comb for curly hair with 3B Curling degree with smaller curls, more definition and bulkier and 3C for thicker wire and curly.
The third product Que tal? Crespissimo Poderoso with 4A Curling degree for wires with thicker and opaque texture, 4B is for medium wires, well-defined and dense 4C is suitable for more dense and small curly.
The brand has met the demand of consumers and developed some specific products, such as a liquid gel, developed to maintain the curls defined on the next day without the humidifying effect. And there is Gelatina-vai ter volume sim (which in a free translation would be Yes it will have Volume) a gelatin with Aloe Vera and gel activator to provide more volume to the hair, it enables the commonly and widely used by local girls ‘misturinha’ a mixture with one of line ´s creams to comb, to customize curls.
“We saw a great potential in the modality Curls,” tells Kamila Fonseca, Salon Line marketing manager. “Previously we were a brand of smoothing products, but we realized through social media that market was going into a new direction and we went to it”, says Kamila.
The company has invited the bloggers Fernanda Ferreira of the blog “Tips of Fê” and Gill Vianna, with her blog “Things of a Curly”, to come to the factory and talk about the women’s movement to assume their curly hair and tell their needs on products. Thus was created a niche product: the Co-Wash, a cream to wash which conditions and is a leave-in definer of curls.
“The curly hair women make mixtures – gel and comb cream – each in its own way, according to your type of curls. And our wash cream Co-Wash was based on research on the internet and with the bloggers. The curly hair is very dry and so the curly women do not like to wash it too much because the wash further dries the hair. So we developed the Co-wash that is multifunctional: it cleans, condition and define curls “says Karmita Fonseca.
“Brazilian actresses Tais Araujo, Sharon Menezes and Juliana Alves, among others that are on TV assuming their curls have inspired us. So we started to develop these blogs actually to create reference for women to assume the naturalness of their hair and especially learn how take care them to make them beautiful, “says Gill Vianna.
“They dind not know how to take care or to comb or arrange their curly hair because their reference were the hair of women with flat hair or at the maximum wavy,” tells Fernanda Ferreira.
Atempt to this market, L´Oreal which undergo reserches on several types of hair from its R&D Studies Center in Brazil, launched EverCurl Sulfate-Free Line which has been specially designed to give deep hydration, brightness and definition of curls. Rich in nourishing oils and hibiscus extract, which treats and softens since lightly curled hair up to curly hair.
Paul Mitchell brought to Brazil Curls line, ideal for the maintenance of curly hair. The line meets the needs of those who want a naturally curly hair, hydrated and frizz-free and consists of: shampoo, conditioner, leave-in gel and treatment.
According to Kline Factor, the professional ethnic market represents 5% of the professional market of hair. Ie in beauty salons the hair straighteners still did not give the place to the abundant and curly hair. But the change is coming fast.
Other companies quickly realized these changes. O Boticario has already launched in early 2014 the line Cuide-Se Bem Cachos Perfeitos (Take care Perfect Curls) with no salt and ideal pH for curly hair in the shampoo, leaving hair clean and moisturized with volume and preparing the hair to the conditioner. The line has been expanded and now counts with a cream comb that reduces frizz for up to 84% and Humidifier of Curls to carry in your purse and apply to dry hair.
Embelleze has just released techniques for the hair care consisting of little or no use of shampoo, known as low poo which means little foam and poo, or no foam, these forms of treatment were broadcast on the Internet.
Natura launched by July Natura Plant Curvas Envolventes,a line that is not restricted only to curls, but also meets women with curly hair. With shampoo, conditioner, Intensive Mask Modeling, Comb Cream Activator and Modeler, Comb Cream Volume Control and Spray Reactivator Humidifier. Formulated with macadamia nut oil, moisturizing ingredients and complex of actives of high-definition. Spray reactivator Humidifier provides soothing fragrance (US $ 6,8). And the Duo Comb Cream Activator and Modeler combines two textures that act synergistically in the threads, providing memory effect to the curls, while maintaining them modeled, with less frizz and protected from moisture. (US $ 9 )
“The curly hair returns to be trend. In recent years, there has been a boom of straight hair, and chemical procedures, such as relaxation, progressive smoothing and have become common in Brazil. I believe that women felt a need to give a “rest” for the wires. Lord, Sarah Jessica Parker and Beyonce are some of the celebrities that influences the style of hair and, as we can see, the visual stripped and natural good is on the rise. Let dry is the new brush “says Aretha Mello – Director of Acquaflora Cosmetics whixh offers the line Forma (shape), specially formulated for curly hair, which has activator of curls and moisturizing modeler. All to discipline, give form and activate the indefinite curls.
Amend launched a complete line for very curly hair to curly hair: Line Gold Black Nutritive, with daily treatment products, a Humidifier of Curls which has reactive action to the memory of the curls and offers more control and definition. Seals the cuticle and eliminates frizz. Line also features Moisturizing Cream, Thermal Protector, and other products.
“Our concern is actually treat the hair and value it naturally or with chemicals that are not irreversible, after all the ethnic hair well treated, it’s beautiful. This does not mean that the person has to assume all the volume when she does not like, but have something to make with that person can leave the hair the way she wants “, says Sionara Flag, technical coordinator of Keune, which has in the Care line of treatment, four products to control the curls.
Lowel has a line of finishers, with Creme Modelador (cream modeler) for curly hair, to reduce the volume of curls and keep them hydrated and defined. The product is suitable for hair with thread from medium to thick and to promote extreme softness, intense shine and natural movement. Line includes also a Moisture Mousse designed for fine hair. It presents a lighter and smooth texture for those who want to define the curls and moisturize without reducing its volume so as to restore the wires and promote intense shine and softness.
Bio-Extratos presents Tanogel Hidratante Fixador, a moisturizer fixer that combines the benefits of the gel with the care of a moisturizer. It forms a film which moisturises, conditions and fixing the hair at the same time.
Lola Cosmetics specializes in damaged hair recovery have also presented itself at the Beauty Fair with products for curly hair: the Creoula line was developed to maintain the wavy or curly hair. Helps fight against the frizz, promotes nutrition and defines curls with Creme Calmante, a soothing cream to indomitable curls, Pulp Friction, a foam to provide perfect curls, Shampoo and Conditioner and Styling Cream Perfect Curls.
Vita Derm has the Cachos Perfeitos line, with shampoo, conditioner and leave-in that combines proteins, poliquaternios, panthenol and quinoa, to repair, reconstruct and conserve natural curls, giving shine and softness to hair.
Phisalia has a line to children with curly hair, featuring Pro-Vitamin E, Omega 6 and 9 and Keratin with shampoo, conditioner, cream to comb and hair mask.
Tratta has Hydra line curls with products that enable to deal with curly hair so that they remain hydrated and nourished, providing defined and soft curls. Formula contains active vegetable, rich in amino acids, proteins and vegetable collagen.
The luxury cosmetics retailer Sephora brings the country the Ouidad brand specializing in curls. “We have seen an increasing demand for items to help stylize the wires. We notice a strong movement by women and men to express their personality through hairstyle and this includes the appreciation of the natural beauty of curls and wave, “says Cinthia Cesario, coach Sephora.
The new line Redken Curvaceous was specially developed for the care of curly hair. The line consists of products for treatment and products for finishing & modeling that combats the frizz, moisturizes and defines the curls for up to 3 days. Curvaceous contains the unique Curl Memory Complex system that nourishes the hair fiber, strengthens the internal structure and reactivates the natural curly. It also contains the Interlock Protein Network technology – IPN which operates in the points of “high-stress of the curls “, giving strength and resistance to breakage.
Aqia presents super special Lipex®Shealight, Bio.ester, obtained from shea nut, which confers high spreadability, conditioning and velvety sensorial. Rich in nutrients, it promotes hydration and softness and can be considered an alternative to silicones. PlantCol®, a concentrate obtained from Acacia Senegal leguminous, a balanced combination of gums, minerals, amino acids and mainly polysaccharides + high molecular weight proteins. Operates in the protective film formation and highly moisturizing, in the control of curls & reduction of frizz and promotes functional nutrition because it replaces biological precursors. It also offers Polymine® BHA + Sunquart® TMS, an association of conditioning actives high-tech with excellent substantivity to the wires and multiple benefits such as: Improve the combing, both the wet as the dry; eliminates the electrostatic of the threads and gain of viscosity.
Lubrizol brings Vecorexin® liposomes by Lipotec it is a delivery system of capillary actives that not only improves the penetration of the actives, as confers smoothness and shine to the hair. Adheres to the hair and forms a film covering the threads, ensuring better entry and permanence, by forming a protective layer that provides shine, softness and combing.
The naturally curly hair may have an asymmetric cuticle formation with the formation of the most fragile points in bending regions of the thread. Thus the difference in format of the hair may alter the strength properties and also of the surface of the hair fiber, since in most fragile regions can occur greater permeation of chemicals capable of cause damage the hair fiber, leaving the hair even more fragile and dried.
Thus, Chemyunion provides Fibroforce, a proteic matrix formed by fibroin and cationic spacers which restore the cuticle region and of the cortex of hair fibers of african ethnic or chemically damaged hair. Thanks to its protein structure and high technology composition, it adheres to the hair fiber while improving its mechanical properties and providing increased resistance of up 25% by african Ethnic hair. The company also provides Activeshine Amazon, a composition of triacylglycerols of Brazilian palm trees, Activeshine Amazon restores lipids and substantially increases the brightness of dry and damaged hair also promotes sensory modification, combing, detangling and softness.
Inventive features its Nutrinvent Balance LV development, unprecedented active for No Poo and Low Poo products, an active of the Green Line without silicones, derivatives of petroleum and animals that reduces oiliness of the scalp, improves the brightness, smoothness, and dryness of the wires, attending the trend of hair washing without surfactant or with low content.