Genderless, from English, that one that has no gender, reflects a global movement in which diversity, in all aspects, has taken over the world. The new social order was imposing new behaviors, bringing greater tolerance, breaking moral and gender barriers, with the acceptance of the diverse. This movement is reflected in the fashion of the streets going to the catwalks, expressing themselves in perfumes, makeup, accessories, signs of a new era of diversification and tolerance.
In the perfumery the great impact was caused with the launch in 1994, of the perfume CK One, of Calvin Kline, success of sales still today, and the perfumes without distinction of gender are one of the tendencies of the year. It’s about them we’re going to talk. Although the concept is the same, there has been a great distance in time and customs that have taken the unisex perfume to genderless. Let us see then:
“From the 1990s onwards, genderless perfumes, or also called ‘shared’ perfumes, have gained a lot of relevance in Brazil and in the world. Whether it is behavioral issues (changes in habits and attitudes), or acceptance of a new reality, the fact is that the category of “niche” perfumes has also grown a lot – gaining even more relevance in our country, “says Luciana Knobel, Head of Fragrance Creation from Symrise, global supplier of fragrances, aromas and cosmetic assets as well as functional ingredients.
Luciana says: “The trend of ingredients helps to leverage the range of options within the genderless universe, as fragrances have their main raw materials as the breeding center. This way, Symrise has been following the trend over the years and brings in his portfolio creations such as: L’Artisan Parfumeur, Comme des Garçons, Diptyque, Frederic Malle, Le Labo, The Diferent Company, among others, “quotes.
For Silvia Costa, perfumer of L’Essence fragrance house, genderless fragrances are characterized by pleasing a certain olfactory profile, regardless of gender. “Unisex, shareble, genderless, the meaning is the same. They are fresh combinations that convey a sense of cleanness and do not call attention and, therefore, indicated for all. What counts is daring and attitude. Not always a perfume with flowers is feminine or a woody is masculine. The characteristic of this fragrance is that it can be used by men and women. It is not “aggressive”, that is, it is easy to use, nice, does not bother the other, ” she says.
Silvia has just created the PROUD fragrance, specifies for the genderless concept, an aromatic floral oriental, with top notes of lavender, sicilian lemon, juicy melon. Heart notes, Jasmine Sambac, Rose, vanilla, violet and background notes, moss, sandalwood, musk, amber.
The taste for freshness is in the Brazilian olfactory identity
In Brazil, where the clime is hot and humid, the freshest fragrances have always been preferred by both men and women. “Unlike the other countries, the Brazilian market has a higher proportion of men’s perfumes, because we have many women using men’s perfumes, for their freshness and intensity,” says Lucia Lisboa, Director of Development and Marketing Givaudan. Brazilian women have used men’s perfumes for many years. Today with the growth and diversity of the Brazilian perfumery market, it is no longer necessary to buy male perfumes to have a fresher, less invasive perfume.
Rastro, the first Brazilian luxury perfume, created in 1965, is still used by all. Updated, is still a sales success and considered perfume shareable by Fragrantica website, specialized in perfumery. It brings a combination of floral notes, especially lavender, with woods and musk in the bottom notes.
“The perfume has to suit to your profile, to what you like,” says Silvia Costa. “We have a genderless scent when there is an olfactory balance of a citrus scent (neutral) with woody notes (masculine: sandalwood, cedar) and floral notes (feminine: jasmine, rose). It basically brings a mix of feminine notes, masculine notes and a refreshing note, which characterizes the genre genderless, ” she says.
Fragrances without gender
The Jo Malone London brand follows this premise and lets its customers choose their perfumes according to their personal tastes, without characterizing them as feminine or masculine. Myrrh & Tonka Cologne, for example, mixes Myrrh with the almond and auburn notes of lush tonka beans, creating a noble and intoxicating aroma. (R $ 860.00). Another example is Lime Basil & Mandarin Cologne, with spicy basil and aromatic white thyme, which bring an unexpected twist to the scent of lemons in a Caribbean breeze. Cool and unexpected. (R $ 660.00)
The new fragrance of Acqua Di Parma, Blu Mediterraneo: Chinotto di Liguria brings seductive notes sweet and bitter notes. The beginning tones of the fragrance are like a breeze: a sheer load of pure energy enhanced by the sweet and bitter notes of chinotto and tangerine. At the heart of the fragrance, notes of jasmine and geranium blossom with fresh, dynamic notes of cardamom and rosemary. The aroma is closed with the silence and tranquility of the base notes of patchouli and musk. (75 ml R 410.00, 150 ml, R 655.00)
Natura – Faces No Gender
Recently Natura launched Faces No Gender, the company’s first non-gender fragrance. It brings citrus and spice notes. It is for everyone and follows the world trend genderless or agender, which is reflected more and more in the beauty and fashion industry and which has among its young main adhepts. “Faces No Gender is for everyone and follows the world trend – the genderless or agender – that is reflected more and more in the beauty and fashion industry and that has among its youth its main adepts. It is for those who seek the freedom to live their way. No labels and no rules, “the company says.
“What makes a desired perfume is what it represents for each one and each fragrance reveals itself deliciously different in each person, regardless of gender,” says Veronica Kato, exclusive perfumer Natura.
Nativa Spa Verbena – genderless
The new line for Nativa Spa, by O Boticário also brings genderless fragrance, betting on lightness and freshness. The olfactory pyramid is Citric; Floral Green, with chord of basil, complex of fresh verbena, freesia, lemon grass and apple in the starting notes. The body features sophisticated bouquet of lily-of-the-valley, orange blossom, bamboo note and The bottom has a touch of honey, vetiver, cedar-florida, amber.