Natura Ekos Chestnut
The Brazilian consumer is not only the biggest perfume consumer – the world’s largest, with $ 6 billion in 2011 – he also learned, in less than a decade, perfume himself better.
From 1992, with the opening of the Brazilian market to imported products, Brazilian consumers have experienced diverse and many imported perfumes with all the exaggeration and delight that they were entitled. The Brazilian industry has responded and launched perfumes developed by main global fragrance houses which have settled in the country, with packaging design at first imported from the major world markets. Now both design and packaging are local, and also imported. It was developed a perfumery with national accent, using elements of Brazil’s biodiversity and also international, for both fragrance and for its complementary products, the so-called line extensions and Brazilian consumer started to mix less when is a matter of perfuming himself and to care of the body.
O Boticario for instance, brings extensions which are on brand portfolio and are offered on specific dates, in limited editions, on special kits to gift. They include soaps, deodorants, body oils and moisturizers, among others, for women, and soaps, deodorants and shaving items for men.
These compositions, that comprises a number of products with the same fragrance, already enjoyed by the consumer, are practical, attractive and contemplates the ways of use and differentiated textures to deliver more benefits in the personal care. Great part of them complements the Eau de Toilette, or the Deo Colonies, of several national brands.
“Eau de Toilette is a further diluted form of perfume, 5% to 15% concentration. In Brazil, its similar is the Deodorant Colony and its main function is perfuming, “said Marseille Tinelli – category manager of Fragrance O Boticario.
Nativa SPA line is an example. There are 17 deo colonies of different olfactory families and products for body, face, bath that complement them, counting more than 100 items. Are formulated based on natural ingredients and their rates vary according to functionality.
The perfume manager of the company explains, however, that O Boticario also has in its product line Parfum or the extract, whose concentration is 20% to 30%. Generally, because they are greasy and a few drops ensure a good performance, are shown in bottles of small volumes.
Tinelli explains that there are still the Eau de Parfum whose concentration varies from 15% to 20%. They are somewhat more diluted than the Parfum and are usually presented in flasks of medium and small volumes with lids of glass stopper or spray valve.
Lily, the first O Boticario Eau de Parfum
Eau de Parfum Lily (US$ 77,5) is the female example of the brand. It is the first eau de parfum of the company that has recovered the craft process of manufacturing enfourrage. Its extension line includes deodorant, moisturizer, perfumed oil and liquid and bar soap, plus a version of the fragrance in roll-on packaging of 10 ml, to load in the bag.
In the male perfumes, the brand has developed a line extension to its classic Eau de Parfum Zaad (US $ 72,3), with: shaving foam, balm after shaving and deodorant.
“The line extensions are used by people, especially women, in the case of body creams for for the smell of the cream does not interfere with the smell of perfume. Therefore, these products are yes available in Brazil and using them depends on the interest of each person, “says Renata Cima Ferraz, from the Brazilian subsidiary of the Swiss fragrance house Firmenich.
Parfum Perfume do Brasil, by Natura
Natura has in its Perfume do Brasil, the first Parfum of the Brazilian market and the first perfume to include Natura´s signature fragrance, with Breu Branco, Cumaru and Priprioca combined with rose laurel .
“Perfume do Brasil is so Parfum – it has concentration is 18-20% and the fragrance remains for 12 hours – that does not make the extension of the line which goes to other products categories such as moisturizer and shampoo, ” says Danielle Barbizan, Natura ´s olfactory culture manager. As Parfum is expensive – the 30 ml flask costs US$ 103 – Natura made for the Brazilian market the Água de Banho Perfume do Brasil Priprioca (bath water or splash category), with the same fragrance, but with Splash concentration for application in abundance . Its concentration is between 5 and 9% and lasts at least 5 hours on the skin and its price is much more affordable price: US $ 35,8.
Thus, the company’s high perfumeryof the company are the Eau de Parfum, which have no line extension, only limited edition products such as: Essential Classic and Essential Exclusive, both in male and female categories.
The Deo Colonies such as Kaiak, Amó (to be used by both), Bio (masculine and feminine), Natura Men and Sr. N have concentration from 10 to 14% and, an average, lasting of 8 hours on the skin. They are equivalent to the Eau de Toialette in relation to the fragrance concentration.
Natura Ekos line provides the deo colonies Castanha (nut), Maracujá (passion fruit), Pitanga, Pitanga Black, Caa (cocoa), Mata Verde (green forest) with line extensions with varied products such as shampoo, conditioner, styling cream and milk, moisturizing mask, night cream, bath cream for hair. Multi phases oils that perfume, moisturize and soften the skin; moisturizer pulp to hands and feet; besides soaps, exfoliating and bar soaps, liquid and cream soaps, oil and massage fluid.
L’Acqua di Fiori presents Deo Colonies Unisex, feminine, masculine and teens, some with line extensions, especially deodorants, soaps (liquid and bar), shower gel (for the deo cologne Urban Code) and emulsions and moisturising butters, such as Dark Chocolate fragrance, Splendore and Ototemo.
Line extensions come to meet a market need, since the fragrance of a moisturizing cream or soap, for instance, diverse of the favorite perfume may clash when used together with the perfume.
“We also know that many Brazilian women enjoy “mixing ” different fragrances, using creams or soaps with scents different from the perfume – they believe they are creating their own identity and in doing so, they enjoy this mix,” says Renata Ferraz, of Firmenich.
The manager of product marketing for fragrance house Givaudan in Brazil, Ana Decot, highlights the fact that the Brazilian consumer lives with the overlapping of fragrances and seek harmony in their use. “Sometimes she uses a moisturizer mainly by the functionality of the hydration and expects of perfuming a comfortable effect of second skin, to be able to apply a perfume just after without any significant interference generally for everyday use,” she says, adding: “In another time can opt for a moisturizer of intense perfume substituting the own perfume. “
“There are body creams that have dosage of perfuming a little higher than most of the creams that we find on supermarket shelves and in that case, the fragrance can “fight” with the fragrance of the cologne or perfume, says Renata Ferraz.
According to Renata, the permanence of a fragrance on your skin depends on several factors, such as the structure of the fragrance: “The oriental, woody or chipradas tend to stay longer on the skin. But if we work in a citrus structure, we can expect a lot of diffusion and freshness, but we can not compare them to the structures mentioned in regard to permanence. “
Ela cita ainda outros fatores, como a Concentração da Fragrância: quanto maior a dosagem de fragrância dentro do produto, melhor será a sua performance na pele; a Qualidade das Matérias-Primas Utilizadas, sobretudo o Tipo de Pele. “O tipo de alimentação, cor de pele, hábitos de vida (sedentarismo), hormônios, tipo de pele influenciam bastante”, diz Renata. “Em peles oleosas, por exemplo, a fragrância tende a permanecer mais tempo do que em peles mais secas.”
Products used for perfuming body
Body care products in Brazil are often used to meet a need for perfuming amongst the most disadvantaged social classes and in this case the massive fragrance in products such as soaps and deodorants play a decisive role: “Everything depends on the briefing that the company gives to the fragrance house – from product concept and positioning of the client in the market, says Cristiane Barreiros, Firmenich fragrances evaluator. “
Today the market offers many luxury soaps with fragrances that stay longer in the body, such as the recent launch of Lux Fine Fragrances, of floral fragrance with exotic essential oils that last up to 8 hours on the skin.
The fragrances in this case are defined based on conceptual or marketing factors: “The intensity of the perfumes in the soaps extend the feeling of freshness and well-being after the bath, a feeling that the consumer seeks to take throughout his day (or until the next bath). The olfactive evolution of the soaps market comes against this demand of the consumer, “says Ana Decot from Givaudan.
There are also people who for one reason or another do not like to wear perfume, and prefer to stay with the clean smell of the skin or a good soap.
The adolescents in general care much about the smell of their hair products, since the hair is one of the most valued resources of seduction in the country. These products are now chosen not only for his performance, but also by the perfume they exhale.
“Each category has a way for the perfumer to work. The shampoo needs of a great lasting, and of substantivity, has to have an explosion in the bath. Like the soap, “says Renata.
“The underarm deodorant is the most common product in the line extensions,” says Danielle Barbizan of Natura. But the correct use of the type of product must be attended.
“It is very important to remember that transpiration levels vary from person to person, so the importance of making the right choice in the moment of the buying,” says Renata.
For people who do not have excessive sweating, or have low-sweating, deodorants may be sufficient to promote the protection expected. However, for cases of excessive sweating the use of antiperspirants that reduce the level of sweating of the armpits is the most appropriate.
“In both cases the use of the fragrance has, as main function prolong the freshness effect that the product provides in the moment of application.”
Moreover, it is important to remember that the correct use of the product favors in the performance and protection expected. The recommendation is that before applying underarm deodorant, the area is washed with soap to eliminate germs that cause body odor and only after drying the skin the deodorant is applied.