When it comes to skin color, normally we come see little rules, like those that restrict to black skins the makeup in earthy and golden tones. There are also restrictions on the oiliness of this type of skin and the products that can enhance this caracteristic or to avoid it.
The point is that, although the Brazilian market, with the diversity of ethnicities available, does not work as the hair market, where there is a specific product for each type of hair, and even for each of the 8 different types of curls that presents our ethnical diversity.
The color cosmetics market in Brazil is extremely competitive. Last year, according to Euromonitor data, it sold R $ 8,516 million (retail price) and is expected to reach R $ 10,181 million in 2020. In a country where women are hungry for innovations, novelties and colors, there is a market with ample potential.
The industries of the country do not present specific makeup products for black or brown skin, but offer a more extensive range of shades and some brands also invest in different textures so that the base, for example, does not drains into a type of oily skin, as is black skin.
So let’s see what we find in the market:
Natura‘s makeup artist, Marcos Costa selected products for a complete makeup for black skin. And he proposes: “I think black should go beyond brown, whether for shadows, blushes or lipsticks.”
To prepare the skin, he bets on products and shades that highlight black skin. The Blur Instant Effect product is transparent and therefore adapts to all skin tones. It softens the pores and lines of expression and leaves a velvety effect on the skin. It can be applied before the base or after the powder. The Matific and Radianc Liquid Bases, with 18 shades each, have light texture and oil-free, the Matif FPS 15 liquid base has matte effect and helps to reduce oiliness thanks to babassu microspheres that control the brightness. For black women, the makeup artist indicates the shades brown 8 and brown 10, for brown skins. For dark skins, he recommends the dark tones 2, dark 4, dark 6, dark 8, and dark 10. Radiance includes the Complex lift radiance, which combines microspheres that capture natural light reflected from the skin and tensioning effect for the disguise of the expression lines.
“The Concealer of high cover Brown and the Compact Powder Brown or Dark are often the best choices for black skins. The concealer should only be used by those with dark circles, smudges or small imperfections. As for the powder, I only recommend it for those with mixed or oily skin, “says the makeup artist, who is a defender of the natural aspect.
To illuminate and highlight specific parts of the face in a natural way, Marcos recommends the marbled iluminator Powder in places like the tip of the nose, temples, forehead and chin, until reaching the desired effect. The golden bronze color fits all shades of dark skin. For the compact Blush, with fine texture and natural effect, it bets on the shades pink 1 and bronze 4 “.
For the lips, following the metalized trend, Marcos suggests the electric champagne, star copper and purple crash. As for the matte liquid Lipstick, the Red 110 and the Purple 600 are impressive, matte effect choices and high coverage and fixation.
Vult brand offers a variety of makeup products with shades that enhance black skin – from enamels to illuminators. “Vult today has a product portfolio focused on black skin. We have invested heavily in improving formulations, adding new technologies and color extensions to meet a much wider range of skin tones. “Says Daniela Cruz, founding partner of Vult.
The HD Base High Coverage and matte effect, delivers high definition finishing, it disguises wrinkles, lines of expression and other signs. It hydrates and uniforms the skin, leaving it with a natural look and without imperfections. The formula is waterproof and non-comedogenic / acnegenic. In all there are 16 shades, including shades for browner skins and black skins. (R $ 33.50).
The Compact Post follow the tones of the bases. They are free of oil and have matifying effect. (R $ 16.50). It also offers cream-colored blushes: Stick Blushes, in a range of shades, include the most suitable for black skins. They complement the Facial Contour Stick, which highlights the desired facial characteristics (3 shades, $ 32.00) and the Illuminating Stick, of creamy texture and scintillating finishing, finishes makeup by naturally illuminating specific points of the face. *R $ 38,50).
quem disse, berenice? (Grupo Boticário) brings two new tones of base high coverage to black skin (shades 11 and 12), with dry finish.
“We always worry about developing products to make Brazilian women even more beautiful. So, we present these two new tones that meet the variety of tones of the black woman, “says Marcela Nogueira, category manager makeup and perfumery of quem disse, berenice ?.
The portfolio of high coverage bases has 10 colors thought on the diversity of ethnicities of Brazilian women. The product does not transfer, counts on UVB solar protection with SPF 15, is free of oil and has matte finish and is resistant to water and sweat. Long lasting (up to 8 hours) and leave the skin moisturized for up to 24 hours. R $ 63.90.
Eudora, another brand of Grupo Boticário, has just launched an exclusive line of high performance makeup and perfect finish: Skin Perfection. The highlight of the collection is the Liquid Base, in 10 different shades – specially developed to meet the diversity of Brazilian women. With matte effect and velvety touch, it provides high coverage, water resistance and sweat, includes SPF 15 / UVA + and lasts up to 8 hours with the exclusive PerfectFix ™ technology, which promotes high fixation without marking the pores and allows the skin to breathe. The Primer Long Lasting Mattifying disguises expression lines and lowers pores – thanks to the optical effect it creates on the skin; the Matifying Powder, adapts to different types of skin without leaving residues, and controls the oiliness throughout the day.
“The new Skin Perfection makeup line brings the exclusive PerfectFix ™ technology that delivers numerous benefits and long-lasting flawless skin – just as we women always wish,” says Patricia Scholz, Eudora Marketing Manager.
There are other makeup brands that already offer options for black skin, both in shades and textures. But the makeup market still has a lot of room to grow. This is one of the ways.