The use of colorings in Brazil presents growing and impressive numbers – 51.4% of Brazilian households according to Nielsen – largely because the population of the country unlike the Europeans, has more difficult to accept the natural aging process, not only the skin, but hair too.
Mintel market research firm, reveals that women aged 45 years or older are more likely than younger women to use permanent dyes in the wires. According to the survey, 46% of women between 45 and 54 years and 42% aged 55 or over said they used permanent hair dye in the past 12 months.
Brazil still has a predominantly young population, who loves to be updated on new beauty styles. Hair colors are both in female hair, as in male hair – in lights, in hair toners, particularly in permanent hair colors.
Young women, according to research, are more likely than the mature women to use products that come out more easily, such as semi-permanent dyes (25% of women aged 16 to 24 reported using them, versus 21% of the ones with 55 or more) and temporary dyes (23% between 16 and 24 years old declared they use them, compared with 14% aged 55 or more).
Undeniable the influence of hairdressers in increasing of the hair color in the country. It is difficult a woman who begins to have white threads resist the seduction of new enforcement techniques that offer a more youthful style. Applications can range from gray coverage to the temporary transformation of color, following the latest trends in the industry.
The category of dyes today, according to research from Nielsen, reaching 51.4% of Brazilian homes. But 30% of the population of homes do not have a person who paints the hair – not at home or in the salon. 44.6% of households contain people who dye their hair at home as soon penetration category indicates that the category is used as a complement to dye sessions made in the hall.
“The permanent dyes are produced with oxidative dyes and are able to cover white hair, providing longer lasting color. By its turn, hair colors with temporary effects, such as shampoos and toners masks, presents in temporary and semi-permanent dye composition, a practical solution to enhance the wires hair coloring without damaging them, since there is no need of use of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide for color revelation. They also allow the maintenance of color between the refinishing periods of dyed hair with permanent dyes, “explains Mariana Olivato – Manager of Technology & Innovation of Cosmotec.
“The choice of permanent color serves a number of reasons, but mainly for its ability to last over 28 washes, providing 100% coverage of white hair and also because they can offer the most dramatic color changes and hair style ( from light to dark or dark to light and the addition of highlights in shades of red, gold and gray as well), “says Bernadette Duffer, Lead Application Scientist-Hair Color Croda Inc, USA.
The permanent dye actuates throughout the hair structure and changes the tone permanently. “Ammonia makes the most durable color. It makes the pigment stay longer in the strands, “attests Roger Martin, coach of DiCristall. According to him to fix itself in the strands, the dye changes the hair structure, it removes the natural pigments of the hair and replaces for another with the desired color. “As it has a stronger chemical composition, the dye can dry out the strands and let them rough, something that does not happen with the use of color wash (hair toner)”.
For its turn the hair toners are mild semi permanent colorations that deposits color pigments in the cuticle of the strand. Although not contain ammonia, contains antioxidants in its formulation. So the pigments are not able to penetrate inside the threads, decreasing the lenght of stay of the product on them – between 20 and 25 washes. They are compatible with any chemical and cover about 40% of white hair.
Moreover, according to Mintel, the trend of multifunctional products are coming strong in the hair color market where it is understood that the hair fibers suffer some damage during the transformation chemical process, so the brands increasingly seek to combine hair color carefully, delivering differentiated products that deliver sensory, shine and hydration. Products that offer ease of application at home, “long lasting”, and shine, are key to the category that has great penetration in the Brazilian market where more than 30% of women claim to be dissatisfied with their hair.
“Brazilian woman does not cease to consume beauty products even in times of crisis, but on the other hand is super picky and search quality products and affordable. Our dyes, for example, have the proposal of treating, restore and nourish while coloring. Functionality, quality and fair price is what the Brazilian consumer wants, “says Amelia Alves, Technical Coordinator of Embelleze.
According to the company, Maxton, the permanent dye cream of the brand, uses a balanced mix of special molecules that provide a perfect coverage of white hair and luminous tones. It contains ceramides, Keratin and a unique combination of high and low molecular weight polymers that allow greater grip and affinity of the product to the hair, providing uniformity of the color from root to tip. And Maxton Se Joga! is a Conditioning Mask Hair Toner that moisturizes hair while colors. It was made a survey on preferred colors among young people and the product was made available in major tones that are: Hot Blue, Pink Wish, Purple Secrets and Red Desire.
Niely (a Brazilian brand bough by L´Oreal) debuts in the coloring market without ammonia with Brilho & Ton. The new line features UltraCare formula, with argan oil and UV filter, which preserves the healthy appearance of the hair, whether they are curly, smooth, very thin, natural or with chemical, company says. It is ideal for use in chemically treated hair with all kinds of brushes, straightening and relaxation. Its creamy texture, does not drip and has mild fragrance. It has a 20 minute staining time.
L’Oréal Paris, has two major products in the coloring category: Imedia Excellence, permanent color that offers powerful color and of long-lasting. The kit of the brand ensures triple protection with: Serum Protector, a pre-coloring treatment; cream colorant, which revitalizes hair during the application and the post-coloring treatment, which extends protection until the next application of the product. And the hair toner Casting Creme Gloss, the result of a new technology that combines whitening in up to a tone and a half without ammonia, color brightness, coverage of white hair and hair care.
And L’Oreal Professionnel has Pigmentation Ultra Brightness with Dia Richesse and Dia Light, a service / hair toner that offers neutralization of hair highlights, brightness bath and color uniformization. Currently the services most requested by consumers, according to the company.
Keune has a range of products for coloring with and without ammonia. Tinta Color, for instance, with ammonia, has a content ranging from 1 to 2%, providing long lasting results with greater comfort, company says. Keune also has Semi Color, a tone on tone hair toner without ammonia and with the Silsoft Technology (anti frizz) that according to the company offers greater brightness. So Pure Color is the latest generation of permanent color with coverage up to 100% of white hair without ammonia, which provides an aromatic experience while coloring. It contains natural ingredients in its formula, a striking fragrance of jasmine and sandalwood and Argan oil. It provides intense shine.
Highlight to the new Color Man, coloring without ammonia with natural tones to suit the male market with five minutes of action time. It can be used in beards and mustaches and provides subtle results that gradually leaves, without leaving root marking.
The main new features of Wella are: Color Perfect, contains Triluxiv technology, which offers high moisturizing power, acting on the hair into three phases: the product deposited lipids in the porous parts of the wire, balancing the hair structure from root to tip, providing uniform distribution color. Then, the HDC color molecules, of high density, in combination with Welloxon Perfect (oxidant containing HDC activator) increase the color intensity. Finally, the product creates a protective film of lipids that permits the reflection of light over the cuticle providing a polychromatic color, of mirror effect and, according to the light gently changes its spectrum.
Another product of the brand Color Touch, is a multi-dimensional color system, in which the colors and brightness creates a game of light in the hair. Its main features are: to provide a better balance of color in lengths and ends and durability, as its color remains uniform during the gradual fading.
Where colorings actuate in the strands
Cosmotec offers the Jarocol® line (Vivimed / Cosmotec) of dyes that meet the permanent, semi-permanent and temporary coloring formulations. The combination of these dyes allows to create wide variety of colors for different applications – from temporary effects to permanent colors, with long durability.
According to Lubrizol, the hair color performance is influenced by the “pre” and “after” treatment and of the coloration itself. Therefore the company brings a variety of products such as Cromapol ™, a new polymer specially designed for hair color formulations. It is suitable for permanent and semi-permanent colors systems, producing an elegant smooth fluidity, as well as a non-drip rheological and high gels clarity. And allows coloring formulations free of fatty alcohols, maximizing formulation flexibility while maintaining the efficiency of color.
Gattefossé offers the versatile Transcutol CG solubilizing of high purity for staining, which improves the fixing of the dye on the hair fibers, has long-lasting effect and promotes more uniform color, company says. It is a co-surfactant for microemulsions and increases the effectiveness of the actives. In addition to these qualities, company highlight, it improves the sensory. Its indicated use is 4-5%.
Croda recommends its Crodafos ™ line of phosphate ester emulsifiers, most notably Crodafos CES and Crodafos CS20A, for dyes and developers in permanent systems as they can help in the delivery of dye intermediates and may reduce the irritation and odor of ammonia. Crodafos CES and Crodafos CS20A can function as main emulsifiers agents in hair hair coloring in cream with large amounts of oils, are stable at extreme pH and provide shear thinning characteristics to assist with the distribution of the dye, among other benefits.
Other ingredients suggested for permanent systems would be Keratin™ EZ, an emulsifying and complete conditioning system to create colorations in cream easily and Crodafos HCE, for faster hair coloring, with better color wash resistance.