The wave of organic, vegan and natural foods indicates a concern for health. From them derive the ingestible vitamins and minerals in capsules, tablets and from these, nutritional supplements and shakes and energetic drinks for athletes who value efficiency and body beauty. A few more steps and the concept “Beauty that comes from the inside out” and there you are the nutraceuticals and nutricosmetics, which reach pharmacists, Handling pharmacies and dermatologists.
Nutricosmetics or Nutraceuticals? Many people confuse these two terms, which actually serve different purposes. Nutricosmetics are orally administered pills for beauty that have given force to the concept of beauty from the inside out. Already nutraceuticals are supplements and / or functional foods that have active function and promote benefits for skin, hair or nails. Also administered orally, but in various ways: soups, drinks, cereal bars, among others.
Dr. Fernanda Chauvin, CEO of Ellementti Dermocosmetics says: Our skin is a protective shield formed in its outermost part, which is in contact with the environment, by cells called corneocytes, and between these cells we have the lamellar layer formed by lipids (omegas) and ceramides, which preserve hydration while protecting the cutaneous region.
This configuration that resembles a wall, where the corneocytes would be the bricks and the lamellar layer would be the cement, exerts the barrier function, preventing the loss of trans epidermal water. Therefore, Nutraceuticals formulated with actives that replace the lamellar layer are very important to maintain skin hydration. Among these Bioactive Compounds Ellementti markets in its portfolio, capsules of Omega 3, 6 and 9 rich Olive Oil, and Sea Berry which is a rich omega 3,6,7 and 9 fruit.
The brand also works with Brazilian Biodiversity assets, such as Acai berry capsules, rich in vitamins, especially Vitamin C, with potent antioxidant action, Guarana capsules, rich in caffeine being a natural energy and oil capsules of Brazil nuts, rich in omegas that help in hydration.
Hair and nails
Hair and nails may or may not benefit from the use of nutricosmetics. Doctor Alberto Cordeiro, dermatologist specializing in laser, cosmiatry and trichology, explains that it depends on the cause of hair loss, which may be nutritional, hormonal or genetic. There are falls, for example, due to iron deficiency and hormonal maladjustment. For such cases we must first identify the issue before addressing it. If you have a thyroid problem you need to treat it first, there is no point buying a nutricosmetic for hair. If a person has a nutritional deficiency, we need to see of what kind and replace these substances to have a satisfactory result. ”
He also points out the genetic cause as the most common cause for the hair loss. “It happens from a predisposition to hair loss, which happens more in men, but can also be seen in women. When talking about nutricosmetics for hair, the most important thing is to identify the cause firstly, because the doses of nutricosmetics can be customized. “Nutriticosmetics can make it oily because some can increase the production of the local sebaceous glands. So it is always recommended to look for a dermatologist or trichologist. ”
Galena, distributor of ingredients for the pharmaceutical market, markets Nutricolin, the only ANVISA approved organic silicon on the market that has scientific studies demonstrating that it reduces wrinkles, increases hair and nail strength in just 90 days. This is because silicon in our body stimulates the production of beauty proteins such as collagen, keratin and elastin.
It also launches: Lipowheat, an option of rejuvenating treatment in drops, that promotes the replacement of ceramides and lipids essential for the skin that contributes to the improvement of body hydration, besides providing a clear reduction of wrinkles in just 8 weeks by stimulating collagen synthesis. For the face, Oli-Ola is a peeling in capsules, an extract of the hydroxytyrosol rich olive fruit that contributes to the cellular renewal of the skin.
Nutricosmetics also offer photoprotection against sunlight or others – from computers to blue light – as well as the damaging effects of pollution. Red Orange Complex (Galena) is an oral photoprotective and anti-pollution product that reduces erythema caused by photoexposure by 40% after 15 days of use.
For Claudia Coral, Galena´s pharmacist, the nutricosmetics complement a skin treatment based on topical cosmetics. Effectiveness depends on the evidence the product provides for the various topical and oral ingredients. “There is no way to compare which one is more or less effective,” she says. “We have always indicated that it should be used during active dermatological treatments for internal use combined with topical active ingredients so that we can take a complementary and potentiated care.”
Probiotics and Microbiota
Probiotic ingredients (for balance of intestinal flora) also aid in skin health. A balanced microbiota contributes to nutrient absorption, immunity and even weight management. “The cutaneous microbiota reflects and communicates with the skin microbiota and studies are increasingly showing this mechanism. There are specific probiotics that can be used for acne patients, others specific for atopic dermatitis, and other purposes, ”explains pharmacist Claudia Coral.
Skin microbiota is a term that is becoming increasingly common and the reason is that skin microbiota has the function of protecting the body as a skin barrier.
“The health of the organism as a whole depends on the intestinal microbiota. A balanced microbiota contributes to nutrient absorption, immunity and even weight management. The cutaneous microbiota reflects and communicates with the skin microbiota. Studies have shown increasingly this mechanism, ” she says.
She explains that there are 4 levels of this barrier function: physics that comprises the very cells that form the skin and act as a physical shield; the chemistry that comprises all cellular biochemical reactions; Immunological, because our skin has many defense cells to protect against external aggressors and Biological, the first layer of protection that is formed by microorganisms that contribute to the protection of the skin and regulate all other levels of barrier function. “These benefit microorganisms act by competition, bind to specific fields in the skin, preventing disease-causing microorganisms from binding and compromising skin health”.
Thus, for example, the simple fact of washing the face with a bar soap interferes with the microbiota. Preservative creams can also interfere. “They inhibit the growth of microorganisms in the cream and transfer it to the skin, so it is super necessary to take care of the topical microbiota too,” points out.
For this function, Galena presents the active Fensebiome, a heptapeptide that has topical prebiotic action, ie, serves as substrate / food only for beneficial bacteria, thus inhibiting the growth of pathogens. It also has probiotic-like action, mimicking the action of a probiotic thus contributing to improved skin health and increasing hydration by 53.6%, says the company, which recalls: “Everything Galena brings has clinical evidence of studies often with published scientific articles, all to reinforce the effectiveness in obtaining results. ”
However, there is no guarantee that nutricosmetics are more effective by being delivered directly to the body. For dermatologist Dr. Juliana Piquet depends a lot on the assets. “Some only exist for oral use. Others have topical and oral versions and others have different actions (like Vitamin C, which orally hardly reaches the skin. For effect on the skin Vitamin C has to be used topically. The ideal is to use both – topically and orally – adjunctly, and cites some examples of nutricosmetic actives:
Caviar Phospholipids (Oral CF) – neuroprotective, imumodulatory and anti-inflammatory, improves membrane fluidity and increases nutrient absorption. Helps in hydration.
Exsynutriment- source of silicon: is the orthosilicic acid and collagen oligomers vectorized in hydrolyzed marine collagen; it elevates the synthesis of collagen and elastin. Provides silicon, which is a dermal cement, linking proteoglycans and hyaluronic acid to collagen, maintaining firmness, elasticity and hydration. I like to prescribe it especially after biostimulator treatments (Sculptra, Radiesse) and after microfocus US (Ultraformer, Ulthera) for about 3 months, a period of intense stimulation of collagen production.
Zinc – antioxidant, inflammatory modulator and healing
Among cosmetic companies, some are starting to offer some products, such as Hinode, one of the largest cosmetics companies in Brazil, which also sells compressed teas, athlete supplements, energy drink preparation powders and protein bars says: “Nutricosmetics are meant to be used in conjunction with cosmetics. They enhance the effect of cosmetics and collaborate for maximum absorption. They are assistants who collaborate in the search for balance, fighting free radicals in order to improve skin tissue to the signs of aging. ”
The company also has in its portfolio Femme Lift Collagen Verisol, a combination of bioactive collagen peptides, obtained from a patented enzyme-specific hydrolysis, which gives rise to specific peptide bonds to act on dermal cells and thus stimulate and restore the skin metabolism of these cells from the inside out. Contains bioactive peptides specific to skin cells. According to the company, the product neutralizes the metabolism responsible for accelerating skin aging; It acts from the inside out into the deepest layers of the dermis, softening the signs of time and the cutaneous lasticity. Treats and prevents the formation of wrinkles and fine lines from 8 weeks of continuous use.
Lowell Cosmetics, recognized for offering professional hair care and home care solutions, enters the nutraceutical business as the first and only in the professional segment with Lowell Caps – capsules enriched with a complex of vitamins and minerals that, combined, treat and accelerate hair growth up to 3x and can grow up to 4 cm per month.
The product has an exclusive formula, 100% natural, with vitamins A, C, E, D, B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9 and B12, in addition to the minerals Zinc, Chromium, Selenium and Potentiated Biotin, actives that guarantee benefits that go beyond the growth of the hair, such as hydration and reduction of the fall. The product also provides strengthening nails and firmer skin.
Being an all-natural vitamin complex it has no contraindications or side effects, with results perceived in the early days. (30 capsules, R $ 129.00)
Mezzo Dermocosmetics has expanded its portfolio and launched the Mezzo Nutrition food supplement brand to complement the health care, beauty and wellness with the In Nutri line of nutricosmetic solutions for skin, hair and body. They are food supplements with multifunctional benefits that stand as alternatives to complement the supply of vitamins and nutrients essential for day-by-day.
The formulas favor and stimulate the main mechanisms for obtaining results from the inside out, with solutions for rejuvenation, strengthening nails and hair and reducing measures. With: In Nutri – Lycopene, capsules that act in rejuvenation, fighting the action of free radicals. With anti-wrinkle action and firming effect. In Nutri – Lipo Intense, for the reduction of measures. Combats cellulite and chronic inflammation, acts on cellular detoxification and stimulates metabolism. In Nutri – Tricology, for combating hair loss and strengthening hair and nails, contains biotin and a blend of chromium, zinc, selenium, vitamin B6 and B7. And In Nutri – Mellanmax, to reduce spots, in color intensity and in renew from the inside out. Protects and promotes skin whitening, are formulated with omegas 3,6 and 9, flaxseed oil, fish oil, soy lecithin and vitamin E.