Perfumery continues to be one of the best-selling segments in the world. An example only: Interparfums SA recorded sales of 5.8% in the last quarter, to 98.1 million euros in the fourth quarter of 2017, which meant a growth of 8.9% at constant exchange rates. Throughout 2017, sales grew 15.4% (+ 16.3% in constant exchange) to € 422 million. Montblanc sales rose 2 percent to € 112.2 million, while Jimmy Choo sales rose 17 percent to € 96.1 million. Coach sales reached € 50.9 million in the year.
In Brazil, only in the monthes September and October (2017 x 2016), according to Abihpec – Brazilian association for cosmetics and perfumery sector) data, which however do not represent the total closure of the year, the variation of the perfumery segment was an increase in volume of 12.6% and 23 , 4% in value.
Every year the segment grows, driven by the trends of the streets, of concepts in the world. What moves the perfumery market in 2018 are the mystical Orientals and the Gourmands in more sophisticated combinations, as market experts perceive and point out.
For Maetthieu Ferreira, drom fragrances Latin America commercial director, the Gourmand notes remain a trend, but the ingredient of the moment in the perfumery is the patchouli.
Member of the same mint family, patchouli is grown in the warm climate of Asia. Its leaves have always been used in traditional remedies throughout the region.
“In the late 1960s, hippies plunged themselves in this exotic scent, certainly attracted by their Eastern origins and reputation as an aphrodisiac. The fragrance of the “Summer of Love” (1968), initially arrived in the western world wrapped in Turkish and Persian rugs. Carpet manufacturers added dried patchouli leaves because of their properties of repelling insects and moths, and the perfume began to be associated with luxury. Even today, this perfume with earthy and woody nuances maintains the sensual association, “says the Ferreira.
Renata Abelin, Marketing Director drom fragrances Brazil complements: “The great trend of the year in perfumery are fragrances that rescue Middle East raw materials. Key ingredients and resins, such as tobacco, incense, amber, Oud oil, Mandarin, Elemi, Tonka seeds, Cedar, Vetiver and Patchouli are used in fragrances that are luxurious, opulent and mystical. All of them are very exclusive and sought after all over the world for their high quality and exclusivity.
Oud, Patchouli and Myrrh
Such ingredients were offered to the gods. Myrrh and incense, for example, are found in the origins of perfumery in Egyptian and Greek civilizations. Burned or transformed into oil, they were traditionally used in worship ceremonies, during funerals or used in cosmetics for their medicinal properties. Forget the sweet, delicate feeling. In this dimension, the resins are raw, rough and authentic. Combining complex narratives and a literal olfactory translation of resins and tobacco, these perfumes reinvent the purpose of using a perfume, which in this case goes beyond the pleasure of achieving a spiritual or conceptual meaning,”evaluates Abelin.
Hoja de Cuba – Berdoues
“Thousands of years later, the resins are back to the trend and the perfumery of the Middle East is the reason. The launches grab the shelves like a dark and mysterious wave – and they clearly are inspired by the oriental scents, ” notes drom marketing director. Among the raw materials, she highlights the magnetic woods, Flamboyant spices, dark amber, spicy tobacco and golden resins. “This is the picture of the most hypnotic and seductive trend of the season!”, she states.
Among the launches of the great Perfumery Houses are: the fragrance Hoja de Cuba by Berdoues, by French perfumer Ane Ayo, released last year. “In it gourmand balsams are confused with tobacco – mildly spicy and sweet – in golden and liquid notes. It also combines seeds of Tonka, vanilla and benzoin, with a touch of rum. Not to mention Carven’s launch by Philippe Romano of drom fragrances, the fragrance Paris Sao Paulo, which plays with oriental notes, spicy and with a tobacco scent. Top notes include bergamot, rum and cinnamon. In the heart, cardamom and orange blossom. And in the bottom notes, those that persist and remain in the body, grains of tonka, vanilla and patchouli, “points out Renata Abelim.
Other examples are the shareable oriental fragrances Al Quds and Oud Abtad by Karim Al Faransi. Al Quds with patchouli and Oud Abtad, of citrus chords, spicy fresh, woody and green.
The Gourmands Revisited
Another trend pointed out for the year and that actually is remained, are the Gourmands. Natura´s perfumer Veronica Kato explains: “The Gourmand olfactory path continues high, but the traditional sweet notes of vanilla and caramel bring more sophisticated combinations, with other gourmets notes such as nuts, cereals, coffee, chocolate, frappuccino, cookies (biscuits), the flower of salt, etc. ”
She also points to the trend of return to nature. “This trend is present through the green florals, combined with aromatic notes, irises or woods, and white flowers, more lactonic like Gardenia and Tuberosa. In fact, the lactonic note coconut and the fig are being used in both feminine and masculine perfumes, “says Veronica Kato.
An example of this trend is the Hobby Chic perfume from 10th Avenue Karl Antony, an Oriental women’s perfume launched in 2015, whose top notes are Coffee, Pear and Pink Pepper. The heart notes are Orange Blossom and Jasmine and the bottom notes are Vanilla, Patchouli or Oriza and Cedar.
Givaudan launched an action in New York, Brazil and Paris, with the same approach of “translating the pleasure of flavors into fragrances” in a creation of flavorists and perfumers of the Swiss Fragrance House. There are ten fragrances that have been translated into fragrances, with no limits for the creation, among which stand out: bacon, tomato, brown icing, mango, pistachio, coconut and black truffle. Using the base created by the House’s flavorists, perfumers have created fragrances that include these Gourmand notes to show a path that Givaudan believes, stimulates the creative process among her perfumers.
“The market is very open. The consumer is also looking for new alternatives, new ways of perfuming, so we seek to offer the differentiated, the innovative, the people seek for this, even more in the cosmetic market “says Paula Ferrari, Givaudan Fine Fragrances Creative Director.
This is also the perception of the Associate Director of Fragrance Development at Firmenich, Mathilde Champetier. For her it is possible to explore this olfactory world more broadly, especially with regard to male fragrances. “In this wave of modernity, we find variations around masculine freshness, including: icy spices, transparent, aquatic and woody facets that do not fail to transmit strength and virility,” translating sophistication and fluidity. “Whether in the Brazilian or international market, the olfactory codes of male perfumery have always kept the Grooming fragrances, which are nothing more than the freshness similar to the aromatic structure of the aftershave products. However, it is important to point out that this branch of perfumery may be more extensive than imagined, and has been growing more and more, emphasizing the blend of fruit and oriental notes (EGEO BOMB FOR HIM / BOTICARIO & IMPRESSION / EUDORA) in an unusual way.
Trends are not always very clear, and although specialized companies will use research around the world to detect new concepts, they are broad and can come from unexpected paths.
“The trend can arise through a market need, as in the case of the green florals that come back after many years when the perfumery is saturated with heavier notes like the olfactory path chypre and sweet. Thus, there is a space for consumers who want something fresher, or they can come along with fashion trends or other universes like the gastronomy that is very in high, through shows and culinary programs with renowned chefs that present different combinations of gourmets, ” concludes Natura perfumer Veronica Kato.