The economic slowdown, less travelling on holidays and promotional prices negatively affected sales in sun care in the year, compounded by heavy rains during the summer season, which led to a much weaker decline in the current value of CAGR of 3% achieved over the entire review period, according to with data from the Euromonitor International agency,of market intelligence.
But Brazil is the 3rd largest market for solar protection in the world, with almost US $ 1 billion in 2016, according to the market research agency. And despite the economic downturn, premium adult sun care registered a far better performance than mass adult sun care in 2016, with value growth of 13% for the former against a decline of 12% for the latter, the agency concluded.
Dermocosmetic brands, which are positioned as premium products, generated an increase in value share, mainly in drugstores/parapharmacies, pointing to lotions and oils of solar use, as the most used in Brazil, however the sprays are gaining relevance for practicality.
Research by Aptar Beauty + Home, a global solutions company in packaging distribution systems, pointed out that the category of sunscreens is on the rise in the consumer basket in Brazil. In the survey, 68% of the people surveyed reported using some type of cream or protective lotion. 25% are interested in sun protection with antiaging benefits and 20% of Brazilian users said they use products developed specifically for their skin type, while 23% feel safe using sunscreen products for sensitive skin and in 12 months, 27% of launches of sun protection in Latin America were marketed as being suitable for sensitive skin, of which 66% were aimed at the “kids” category.
At each year, brands seek to add value to their products, which are increasingly present in the chemical and physical filters and now with both properties (see interview with Dermatologist Ana Coutinho), and in the offer of greater benefits , such as antioxidants, anti-aging or more fluid and drier textures, in addition to the increasingly practical and safe packaging.
Johnson & Johnson, for instance, is one of the companies that releases in its portfolio this year, products that meet different needs and skin types and that go beyond sun protection, adding extra elements for those looking for matte effect, antioxidant, brightness control or high resistance. SUNDOWN® Beach & Pool offers triple protection against UVA / UVB rays, chlorine and salt water – and three times more water resistance FPS 70 (120 and 200 ml, R $ 47.90 and R $ 54.90 respectively). NEUTROGENA® Sun Fresh Facial FPS 60 has a fast-absorbing gel-cream texture and particles that control oiliness and brightness, for 12 hours . (50 ml, R $ 64.90) and of its ROC® Premium brand, the launch ROC® MINESOL® Oil Control Antioxidant Serum with SPF 30, was developed especially for the skin of Brazilians. It brings benefits such as sun protection anti-oiliness and anti-aging with texture of invisible serum. (50g, R $ 74.90) Another MINESOL® Actif Unify Tinted Fluid release combines whitening effect and natural coverage with 60-factor protection. Available in two shades to help tone-tone the skin The fluid texture is easy to spread and has quick absorption. (30g, R $ 90.00)
SkinCeuticals (L’Oréal) brings to the country Physical Matte UV Defense FPS 50, a 100% mineral sunscreen for the oily skin, combining in a single product, high sun protection, anti-glare action, natural coverage and matt effect with ultra-fine texture , not to weigh on the skin. Contains mineral filter, which acts as a mirror on the skin reflecting the rays, provides a high level of protection thanks to its unique composition: 4% zinc oxide and 9% titanium dioxide, both micronized, which prevent the effect to whitish skin of common physical filters, in addition to reducing pore clogging, which is very convenient for oily skin. Contains Aerated Silica, a brand-absorbing technology that helps retain oil, ensuring a luster-free skin for longer. It uniforms the skin, leaving it with a natural look. It can be used as a primer, preparing the skin to receive the makeup, has light coverage and translucent beads with color, which adapt to different skin tones. The ultra-fine mineral mousse texture provides blur effect, minimizing the appearance of pores and imperfections. (R $ 129.00)
Vichy is launching Idéal Soleil Antiacne FPS 30, a dry touch sunscreen SPF 30 that protects the skin and helps reduce acne. Its rapid absorption formula counts with an anti-acne complex, which also acts to control brightness and oiliness for up to 9 hours. And, for the body, Idéal Soleil Hydrasoft Body Protector FPS50, has light texture for a high moisturizing power sun protection, as well as antioxidant action, which reduces the sun damage caused by Infrared A radiation. The formula contains the developed filter and patented by L’Oreal, Mexoryl SX, Vitamin E and Glycerin.
Also from L’Oreal, the La Roche-Posay brand launches ANTHELIOS [XL] -PROTECT ™ FPS 30 and FPS 70. The formula joins a broad-spectrum filter system – which prevents damage from UVB, short UVA and long UVA – a powerful antioxidant complex, in addition to La Roche-Posay thermal water, which fights free radicals. The product provides protection for up to 8 hours, with tests, and a sensation of freshness in the skin. The lightweight and comfortable texture is of quick absorbtion (In the versions FPS30 – 200 ml – 49,90, FPS70 – 200ml – 64,90 and FPS70 – 120ml – 49,90)
The Australian brand Australian Gold understands that Brazilians, like Australians, like a tan color and bet on a line that features both, Block Out (237 ml, R $ 179.80), an FPS45 facial protector and the Solar Protector Kana Coffee FPS 50 and the Accelerator Instant Bronzer for use with FPS30 sunscreen or Velocity Accelerator Lotion, which was developed for use with Sunscreen 8. (both 237 ml, $ 189.90 each) .
The French brand Avène has just launched its Avène Toque Seco FPS70, considering Brazil’s humid climate, the oily or mixed skin of Brazilians and the high incidence of harmful rays to skin health, with or without color (R $ 79,90 ). The exclusive protection for UVA, UBV, visible light and infrared, still blends anti-aging and antioxidant properties. Its formula evenises the skin with a dry touch. But the brand also offers the safe option of the Avène Autobronzant self-tanning sunscreen, which contains Dihydroxyacetone + Eritrulose to maintain a natural, luminous tan progressively. DHA reduces the orange effect and leaves the skin with a uniform, unblemished tone. In addition, it hydrates the skin intensively and because it has a high tolerance can be used on the skin of the face, even for more sensitive skins, since it includes anti-free radical agent (78% pre-tocopheryl, precursor of vitamin E), which prevents the oxidative stress of the dermis. It also includes high concentration of Avène Thermal Water, which is anti-irritant and soothing. (100 mL, R 89,90)
Mezzo Dermocosmetics presents a new generation of solar filters, which guarantee 12 hours of protection against UVA, UVB, infrared, blue light and visible light with dry touch and anti-thermal and anti-glare actions, which prevents pore clogging.
There are 8 products that guarantee a 12-hour protection against rays UVA, UVB, infrared, blue light and visible light with dry touch and anti-thermal and antiglycant action, which prevents pore clogging . Fotoactive’s phototableable filters prevent the action of free radicals and have in the formulation the Z-ion-Term technology, of biotechnological minerals that stimulate the rejuvenating process and aid in the replacement of minerals.
Highlight to Fotoactive pro-D-FPS 30 sunscreen, with protection against UVA and UVB rays, the product has antiglycant action and prevents against digital aging from blue light and visible light. With no preservatives in its composition, it has Pro D technology that allows the maximum synthesis of cutaneous Vitamin D without interfering with SPF and has assets such as lutein, hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E, Vederine, Copper and Zinc that combined promote a smooth and hydrated skin. Can be used for sensitive skins (100g is $ 157). Another product of the line, Fotoactive Bubbles Glass – FPS 60 Correction Color, with PPD 26, tonning, offers complete protection: UVA / UVB, Blue and Visible Light (computer light, LED bulbs) Infrared, but leaves the skin looking natural and lightweght. Includes Bubbles Glass technology (dry and velvety touch and disguises the signs of aging skin and fills lines of expression), Vitamin E, Lutein and P-Refinyl (pore reduction, oil control and strengthens the structure of the dermis through of collagen synthesis). It is oil-free, unscented, hypoallergenic and dermatologically tested. PPD 26. Touch dry. (45g is $ 134.36).
Shiseido has developed Sports BB, BB Cream sunscreen to protect and nourish the skin. Contains SuperVeil-UV 360 ™ that creates a layer of UV protection adhering to the skin, preventing UV rays from reaching any angle of the face. It also contains Profence CEL ™, a complex of ingredients that help prevent skin damage such as wrinkle and spot formation and WetForce, to boost UV protection when in contact with sweat or water, and active for light effect. (R $ 329.00)
Mintel has pointed few months ago, to international trends in the cathegory, including from Brazil, for a number of months, pointing to products against up to three types of infrared light (IF), blue light (HEV), specific forms of pollution such as PM2.5, besides considering aggressive pollution agents , or neurological and the emotions of the individuals in the day to day.
From Brazil, the sunscreen Cosmobeauty Protector Cosmobeauty Cosmo Block Anti-aging SPF 75, from Cosmobeauty, is a dry, toning and antioxidant anti-aging touch protector. It has PPD 25, DMAE and polysaccharides to protect the skin from PM2.5 and PM10. Protects for up to 18 hours and promotes greater elasticity, firmness of the skin and facial contour. Still in Latin America, Esika, a Peruvian company, has developed Esika Multiprotetor Solar Perfect Face & Body SPF 50+, which contains Skin Protect an antioxidant complex that protects against six types of radiation – UVA, UVB, Infrared A, Infrared B and Infrared C and visible light. And from France comes a trend that combines sun protection effects to makeup, with Garancia Ma Vap ‘Bien Aimée Makeup Spray Fixer. It fixes and matifies the makeup, leaving the skin to breathe, protects against light, with active Buddleia, high content of phenylpropanoide and concentrated levels of verbascosides and echinacosides.
With the tropical climate, the main requirements of Brazilian consumers are: light sensory, non-sticky and fast absorption. With the growing awareness of the importance of daily sunscreen use, Brazilians are including multifunctional products in their cosmetics basket, opting for facial moisturizers and makeup that have FPS, for example.
Evonik has developed the Personal Care line with ingredients that enhance sensory and the stabilization of sunscreens, such as TTEGO® Care PBS 6 (Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate), a versatile 100% natural PEG-free O / W emulsifier, offers stabilization of challenging systems, including high- and spray. It enhances skin hydration and innovative textures. TEGO® Feel C 10 (Cellulose), is a 100% natural alternative to the use of microplastics, and offers high performance in the control of sebum and oiliness, guaranteeing the desired matte effect in formulations for body care, facials, makeup and protectors solar power.
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies continues to increase its world-class TiO 2 offering for sun care applications based on its high performance UVR TiO 2 and UVR TiO 2 AS. This ultra-thin TiO 2 and its surface treatments have been developed to meet stringent global regulations and provide extremely low bleaching in the formulation, bringing very high SPF protection.
Galena actuates in the IN & OUT concept (oral and topical use) for potencilized benefits like natural protection against UV rays and uniformity of skin tone. Carotenoids (IN): These are yellowish or orange pigments present in nature that act as photoprotectors, strengthening the antioxidant defenses of the skin, reducing the harmful effects caused by UVA radiations. and UVB and Preventing Aging and Topicarotene (OUT) – Extracted from tomato, topicarotene is the only colorless carotenoid on the market and ideal for cosmetic formulations. It provides anti-inflammatory action and accumulates in the skin, protecting it from free radicals and helping to maintain the integrity of collagen proteins and uniformity of skin tone, among others.
developed EPITEX ™ 66 Line, a liquid polymer that allows the formulator to deliver benefits like water resistance without compromising the sensory sunscreen based emulsion. ETHOCEL ™ STD 100 Premium: a solution that can be used in body and lip balm and bronzing oils. The technology retains all properties of oil-based products, such as gloss and hydration, resulting in fluid-to-viscous oil-gel textures, lightweight and pleasurable, and easy to apply, removing the sticky, oily form of oil. SUNSPHERES ™: powder or liquid polymers that increase the UVB / UVA protection of organic and inorganic fi lters by 50-70%, improve the sensory properties of the skin and have a soft focus effect, among others.
In the packaging area, Aptar Beauty + Home has developed the Bag-on-Valve (BoV) technology, similar to an aerosol, but whose concept is airless. With more features, functionality and greater protection of the most sensitive formulas, it gives the consumer a better experience, since the product contained in the package – generally sprays, lotions and gels – has 360 ° functionality, has total evacuation and continuous spraying.
Two products are moving the industry: GS pumps and EuroMisty® spray. The first is a versatile lotion pump that offers a variety of aesthetic options and functional benefits. Made from a modular system that allows easy customization, it also features an on / off locking system that facilitates transportation. And EuroMisty®, which offers a high quality spray with a wide range of dosages, inserts and actuators that allow a wide range of combinations. The pump is easily customizable and has the ability to handle even the most difficult formulations.
There are many new products and assets that add value to the sun protection category, which has conquered the consumer. But the many researches around physical and chemical sunscreens – what counts in fact in this type of product – that little by little the technology has been giving more and more the necessary security to the consumer, besides comfort on the skin.