Soap Coffee? Exfoliating of grape seeds? Essential oil from the rind of bergamot? How about shampoo of jenipapo? The cosmetic market is going to tillage and the tillage is finding in the cosmetic segment  an option profitable that diversifies the use of plantations, traditionally reserved for foods, a business that thrives in the light of environmental certification.

The antioxidant properties of grapes, coffee and yerba mate, waste of seed used as exfoliants, or the flavoring properties and of healing  of the tangerine are today inputs that companies of sustainable profile seek on plantations that started using agroforestry  management without fertilizer and chemical defensives with environmental certification, adding value to their products a concept increasingly appreciated by consumers worldwide.

“People value more products that bring sustainability into their DNA” – attests Edimilson Miguel, Regional Marketing Manager for Southern Natura, which found in Ervateira Putinguense, yerba mate Brazil certified by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) – property and industry – the sustainable management.


                          
                          Eduardo Guadagnin, from Ervateira Putinguense
                                  reference on sustainable farming

The Ervateira is in Putinga, at the Taquari Valley (Rio Grande do Sul state) and received certification in 2003, after a period of adaptation to the FSC standards. “Natura found us and waited until we achieve certification,” says producer Eduardo Guadagnin, which cultivates yerba mate beside bushland since 1995 when he founded Ervateira. He now divides the production of yerba mate in distinct processes: one for plants that are designed to the  drinking  mate,  and another for what will become the male cosmetics line Natura Ekos MateVerde.

“For the company are used only the leaves, of drying milder, at 60 °C, without direct contact with the fire. So they are preserved their invigorating properties, refreshing, purifier and energizing. From there, the leaves are already forwarded to the company, where they are treated and their principles extracted, “explains Guadagnin.

“We have become a benchmark in sustainable farming, we added value to our production,” says the producer. To send part of  the production to Natura laboratories in São Paulo, the producer has doubled the amount received by the pound product – one kilo of  certificate of mate is sold today US$ 5,75, the leaf of pure herb is traded for more than US $ 13,8. ” We stipulate the provision of about 3 tons per year and every  a calendar is made to know the precise amount that the company will use” account.

                         

Currently, nearly 50 properties provide yerba mate for Ervateira Putinguense which seek to adjust themselves to the management system to suit the environmental requirements. The main function of the certification is to guarantee to consumers that the process of management of forest resources is being fulfilled and protected forest.

“Although the sharing of benefits constitutes an important vehicle for promoting social and environmental benefits, we believe that one of the main drivers for the sustainable development of our partners should be the provision of production inputs, which pays the productive activity, promotes social organization, generates value for the local economy and values ​​the work, “says Miguel Edimilson, Natura.

About a hundred kilograms of leaf produces three kilograms of aromatic extracts used in the manufacture of soap, shampoo, deodorant and perfume line. The leaf is rich in tannins, vitamins and caffeine. It has stimulant properties, antioxidants and digestive.
                                        

By concentrating 75% of the production in cosmetics based grape, yerba mate and peach, Essence Di Fiori also realized the opportunities in this market. “To grow in this market we needed a different strategy. So we invest in regional tourism and its typical products, “explains Eder Moretto, director of the company. With sales of US$ 1,4 million last year, the company from Bento Gonçalves (RS) started gaining space when has bet  on the potential of these products.

“The  Sierra gaucho has strong fruit production. Our products are sold in these tourist regions of South and taken to other regions of the country, by  mouth to mouth communication, he says.”

                              
                                     Kapeh – scent of coffee flower           

With tradition on cultivation of coffee, Family Araujo is the main supplier of raw materials of Kapeh. The Farm Rancho Fundo in the South region of Minas Geraes state, received the stamp of international certification, UTZ, which ensures an annual production screened and sustainable with protection to the environment and human respect. 
                               
                                coffee seeds for scrubbing product

Through this process traceability is possible to know about the origin of all coffee used in the cosmetics Kapeh such as: variety, harvest, harvest date, beverage quality, products used in cultivation, employees involved in production, finally, all data relevant to the supply chain.

“”Coffee is very little explored in the cosmetic industry and is great for the skin as it is rich in antioxidants that fight against aging and has pleasant fragrance,” explains Vanessa Vilela Araújo, founder of the brand, which markets its products in stores exclusive and in cafeterias. The Kapeh currently exports to Portugal and the Netherlands, as well as providing its products to sixteen Brazilian states.

                                
                                
                           Vinotage – Before waste of winemaking
                                   now with nanotechnology – for Spas



In the Serra Gaucha, largest grape producing region of the country, it is also Vinotage, the most representative Brazilian beauty industry of products based on wine therapy.

By harnessing the waste of winemaking, especially the seeds, gaucho companies produce cosmetics for the day by day and for beauty treatments in spas and clinics.

The grape seed oil is a natural ingredient and contains many unsaturated fatty acids that provide high moisturizer activity to the product. It also has bioflavonoids that have potent antioxidant activity. “When we created the Vinotage the idea was to take advantage of the byproducts of the wineries here in the region, especially the seeds,” says Franzoni Morgane founder Vinotage, which has a complete line with soaps, moisturizers, exfoliants, shampoos, bath salt, among other products.

“Currently a company from Caxias  (RS) is doing this extraction, however in the testing phase. But we can put the oil into nanoparticles, where have an excellent result as comparable to propitiate an occlusion of Vaseline, liquid without residual fatty, enabling greater efficiency and enhancing the benefits of grape polyphenols, “says Franzoni..

Three years ago,Ecocitrus – Cooperativa dos Citricultores Ecológicos do Vale do Caí – Ecocitrus a cooperative from Montenegro (RS), sells an average of eight tons of essential oils extracted from the bark of bergamot, to Europe, where they are used as inputs for the manufacture of products beauty as fixer aromas and component colognes and also for aromatherapy, by equilibrating properties of emotions.

Investing in new technology and extract essences was the alternative found by the cooperative to give a destination to the thinning – a technique that consists in the harvesting of the fruit to decrease the weight of the tree and allow the others to grow, thus giving international destination to a fruit that would be discarded. “The cooperative, with this process, seeks to add value to the products of farmers, taking out the intermediation of the third-party in the production and marketing,” says Ernesto Kasper, Ecocitrus manager of institutional relations. Last year, revenue from the sale of the cooperative with the tangerine oil sale reached US $ 367 thousand, benefiting 65 members. “With farmers enabling the industrialization and commercialization, we arrived in an increase in the value of Kg GreenTangerine (thinning) of over 30%, compared with what the companies in the region pays’ he tells.   
                                      
Based on biomes such as Amazon, Caatinga, Cerrado, Pantanal, the company initially researched and developed two lines of products quality and welfare: Mandacaru da Caatinga and Jenipapo do Cerrado, which had never been used in the cosmetics industry. The Mandacaru cactus native to the Caatinga, by its resistance to drought periods, has high moisturizing power itself due to water reserves in the stems and the company sought the cultivation of raw material mandacaru, – formerly used for animal feeding – in a sustainable manner, with local producers, in partnership socially responsible, based on mutual and continuous development.
                            

The other line is Jenipapo do Cerrado, an edible ingredient typical of the region, but provided by the Site Bello, located in the city of Paraibuna, São Paulo. A sustainable way of farming comes from the observation that the conservation of the Brazilian flora especially the ones of the fruit native ecosystems of the country is possible, through the creation of economic value, which happens with the commercial scale production.

The Jenipapo has large sunny flowers and golden petals, which perfumes the air with a fruity-floral fragrance.  Besides,  the extract of this Cerrado plant, hydrates, repairs and protects the hair and skin.

“Just as we do in Provence, we seek to identify ingredients that are emblematic, but not obvious, making the stories behind each product also unique for Brazilians,” says Benjamin Beaufils Managing Director of L’Occitane Group in Brazil.