with Gabriela Guzzardi – Fine Fragrance Marketing Manager
1- What are the new developments for 2020 based on new trends?
Symrise has developed several new iconic fragrances in 2019, both in the local and international markets and follows 2020 in full swing, undoubtedly inspired by new market trends. One example is Paco Rabanne’s Pacollection, innovative in every way.
2- What are these new smells and trends? What do they try to convey?
Our creative team is inspired by the various behavior trends that are directly reflected in the fragrance world.
For example, the search for well-being and serenity: we observe a large part of consumers looking for healthy habits and a balance between body and mind, therefore, a diet rich in nutrients has been extremely valued. Products such as vegetable milks, cereals and seeds are increasingly explored, and are often considered as precursors to a new addition, much more innocent.
Olfactorily, the translation of this trend is due to the arrival of new gustatory chords in the current perfumery, ingredients that bring this creaminess and comfort: milky notes, based on chestnuts. They combine elements like hazelnut, almond, and honey, for example, with creamy and elegant woods, like sandalwood and the sensuality of vanilla and favatonka.
They bring a new look to the traditional “gourmand” known for the classic ethyl maltol (burnt sugar note) that has been extensively explored in perfumery and continues to this day.
3- What are the most recent launches in perfumery of Symrise for the Brazilian market and if you can mention the international ones as well.
Among the recent launches in the national market with fragrances created by Symrise, we highlight Floratta Love Flower, by O Boticário and Natura Homem Dom. In the international market, for example, we have Davidoff Run Wild in its male and female versions. We have big releases for this year.
4- Any special features for the winter which is the next season? Female and / or male
For Valentine’s Day, there will be a series of launches that explore the couple’s sensuality through warmer, sweeter and creamier notes that are undoubtedly very suitable for the coldest winter weather.
5- Is development global? Are there special developments in Brazil? Can you quote?
We work with several types of clients that operate globally, regionally and locally, each with its own level of complexity.
Logically, in the case of global projects, there is a greater complexity because we need to consider different countries where brands operate and consumers with specific olfactory preferences .
6- Despite the quarantine, is there any development of the company in perfumery in the Brazilian market today?
We continue to work intensively supporting our customers in their needs, both in Brazil and in other Symrise creative centers around the world. Fortunately, we were able to maintain a healthy work pace in our laboratories and at the same time protect and take care of the health of our employees to meet the demand of the moment.
7- Black Opium, by Saint Laurent, bets spicy and on the bold mixes, such as coffee, orange … does this have to do with the new bold and sexy woman?
Black Opium is a vibrant Floriental fragrance, the result of the combination of orange blossom and jasmine with citrus output and an oriental taste background differentiated by the presence of coffee surrounded by sugary notes that certainly enhance sensuality and please the young market.
We observed in Black Opium a freer, modern sensuality, which represents a new woman, detached from this side seductive, more cliché.
8- Is the fruity floral still in fashion? Gucci Guilty Love mixes with musk, patchouli and narcissus flower … does the unusual show up in the new scents?
Floral Fruity is undoubtedly still present in international releases as an olfactory route of great acceptance by different age groups. The fruits bring a modern facet to the fragrances either through more succulent versions such as pear, watery ones like cantaloupe melon or citrus fruits that bring an invigorating effect.
9- What about vegan, natural and sustainable perfumes … which CK Everyone uses, is it something that is here to stay or does it not depend on good developments?
The wave of vegan, natural and sustainable perfumes is here to stay. There are several reasons for this to happen. We need to be concerned with the environment, with our environmental footprint in the world and this impacts the industry as a whole. It is necessary to think about it now and create the possibilities for perfumery in the future, green chemistry, the use of water, all of these are themes of concern and study by Symrise. In addition, we already see a new consumer increasingly younger and concerned with these issues. We have to walk together.
10- And genderless fragrances? What is possible to be explored? Themes like Replica of Maison Margiela, who bet on Spring in a Park, does not convey the idea of a floral? And the floral for the new male generation, is it well accepted?
Genderless fragrances are also a strong trend, especially among younger people. Replica Springtime in the Park is a light, fresh floral fruity musk and suggests the shared use for different genres, although we consider the most expressive florals in women’s perfumery.
Certainly the flowers are conquering, little by little, the male audience and some examples are the geranium and the iris. This is certainly a trend that is likely to grow in the coming years and will come to Brazil in a way adapted to the olfactory profile of the Brazilian consumer.
11- And finally the earthy and woody ones. Do they convey the ideal of the new generation through natural smells?
And finally the earthy and woody ones. They convey the ideal Woods have been well established in men’s perfumery for several years and their acceptance in women’s perfumery has grown a lot, bringing warmth and sensuality when combined with oriental balsamic and musk notes. The more rustic fragrances, with touches and earthy aspects, because they are associated with nature, have conquered an audience avid for this type of natural smells. They can be considered more niche because they follow a specific olfactory route that often does not present high commerciality and consequently a high market acceptance.